Still in Madrid

Just a quick note to say that I spent the day at the Museo Prada and the Thyssen Art Gallery viewing some of the most incredible art collections in the world. Saw rather too much- but still filled with the beauty of art.

Tomorrow night - actually just after midnight, I return to SA.

Adios from Madrid.
Goodbye

A few days in Madrid before returning home

I got into Santiago de compostella on Friday as I recorded in the last post.
Saturday and Sunday were a time of reunions - meeting pilgrims from all stages of the walk who had made it. That in it itself was a great experience.

Many of the pilgrims go to Finisterre as well. Some walk there - another 4 days of walking and others take the bus. The name Finisterre means - the end of the world - because in medieval times it was the end of the known world - just ocean lay beyond. They often would burn their clothes - they would have been smelly rags by this time - as put on new clothes. I decided not to go there as it is not the end of the world for me, and we have better beaches in SA. My camino ended by reaching Santiago, going to the Pilgrims mass - more about that in due course - and getting my compostella.

I wanted to go to Madrid on Monday to discover this city before returning home on the morning of the 30th June. However all the express busses were full - only the slowbus which takes 10hours was available. So I left on Sunday night and took the overnight trip. It was a dreadful journey as it is almost impossible for me to sleep on the bus. I got to Madrid early on Monday morning found the hostal I had booked and lest my bags there as it was too early to check in.

So in a rather tired state I explored some of the centre of Madrdid before I checked in and had a snooze. Madrid lacks the charm of Santiago. It looks like an 18|19th century city - very beautiful but not interesting to me from an antiquity side. Hovere it does have some of the greatest art museums in the world - and that is what I will be exploring tomorrow.

So I return to SA on Thursday morning. I am looking forward to be at home again.

So from Madrid - Adios.

Glory Alleluia - I am in Santiago de Compostella

784km and 35 days ago I set out from Roncesvalles and today I reached the Field of Stars - Santiago de Compostella.

Last night in the albergue there was a palpable sense of excitement. The local village was also excited as there were all sorts of feasts happening - local saint and also the summer solstice (I think). It seems there were celebrations across Spain and a lot of it involved building bonfires and jumping over them. As pilgrims we were excluded from the festivities because we had to be back in the albergue by 10.30pm and festivities were only starting then. But our excitement was due to the wonderful sensation of knowing that we had only 20km left to walk.

I have arrived!

Others set off early as usual, but I leisurely only set off about 7.30am. Pedrouzo is a little village in an eucalyptus forest and it was lovely going down the fragrant (no cows) leafy lanes through the forest. 10km from Santiago the urban sprawl began, and it was just a slog into the city. I reached the cathedral at 12.30pm - and my walk was over. I immediately started meeting pilgrims, and took fotos to record it. Mass was on in the cathedral, so the next order of business was to find a bed. Pat from Ireland pointed  to a buiding and siad they were staying there. I went across, found a room in the Residencia la Estella and 15 euros a night - a real bargain. As I come out of the front door, I go up some steps and I am in the Plaza of the cathedral. The cathedral is to my right, The Hotel Reyes Catolicos is across the plaza and the Municiple Offices to the left - all magnificent ancient buildings. My humble little residensia suits me fine.

Pilgrim's Mass in the Cathedral 

So after settling in, I went to the cathedral and prayed at the tomb of St James the Apostle, and went around to behind his statue and gave him a hug. This what pilgrims do, by the way. Came out, and had a long reunion lunch spanish style, and then got my compostella - a certificate to say that I completed the camino.

Later went out again and met the whole bunch of people, some of whom I last saw in Pamplona. Now I have returned to my residensia, written up this happy blog and suddenly feel rather tired.
Tomorrow will be very strange indeed - waking up and not starting to walk. I almost feel lost already!
But now  I will soon be in bed, and so I can joyfully say:
Adios from Santiago.

Almost there - Thursday in Pedrouzo

TOMORROW IN SANTIAGO. Can´t believe I am almost there.

Since Sarria I have intersecting with Pat and friend from Ireland and the Channel Islands. On the way to Ribadiso yesterday we stopped at the same cafe in Melide to have a cup of coffee. Pat was down in the dumps and not enjoying the walk and about an hour later I discovered why. I came acrross them at a little stream preparing to cross. It seems Pat had walked the camino before and knew this was coming. It was a teeny weeny little stream - about 2m wide and about 30cm deep. Pat was in distress and was preparing to take of her boots and walk acrross. That doesn`t sound much, but for someone on the camino to have wet feet/shoes/socks is a disaster because that´s how you get blisters. And that is what Pat was ready to risk because she was scared of walking across the bridge. The bridge consisted of stone blocks about 30cm wide and 1/2m long put together forming a little bridge. The blocks were uneven and rounded at the edges, specially on the other side. Pat was terrified of losing her balance and her fears made that little bridge into a tightrope across the grand canyon.

I came up and joined in the discussion of how to get Pat accross. I told her to give me her pack and I would carry it across as it would be a lot easier without the extra weight. Her friend took her water bottle, and Pat ventured across. She inched her way across , but made it and we all clapped. It took all of 3 seconds to walk across with her pack in hand. I gave it to her and she said to me: Thank you Keith, you are such a gentleman.

I am telling this long and detailed story because I was very interested to reflect on what this compliment meant to me.I felt good after that, and the rest of the walking was so easy. I reflected on how important ones attitude  is. That simple little compliment made the physical effort of walking easier. In sports, ones frame of mind can be so important. And in daily life, when I feel good about who I am, then life is beautiful. The trick of course is not to rely on other people to make me feel good, but to make that decision about my emotions myself.

So after my philosophising, a little note to say that lastnight I intended to have a bite to eat and retire, but sat at a table with Huri and Loreto - an Argentinian living in Madrid, and her friend Victoria whose father is a sculptor. And a simple snack turned into sampling Spanish food and the local specialty called Ribeiro - an excellent white wine, and mini pimentos - green peppers for us- grilled in a Galician way etc. We all had to dash back to the albergue ( about 20m away) before the doors were locked. So it was a late start today, and a lesurely walk to Perdrouzo (or Pedrouzo not sure) because Paulo phoned ahead and reserved places in a private albergue. Tonight is the feast of San Juan - linked with the longest day of summer so it looks like fiesta time here. Interesting.

Tomorrow we walk into Santiago - about 20km. WOW.

So from Pedrouzo - Adios.

Wednesday in Ribadiso do Baixo and 45km to go !!!!!!

People started leaving the albergue incredibly early this morning. The person in the bunk above me had an alarm that went off at 5.15am and at 5.45am he was out of the dorm. I surfaced a little later and at 6.35am was walking down the stairs - a new record for me - and I was alarmed to note that most people had gone already. What was I missing? In any case I plodded along and soon warmed up in the morning chill. Today´s walk was 26km to Ribadiso. Some people were walking further, but 26km is enough for me. I had more energy today - just as well because there were a LOT of ups and EVEN MORE downs to contend with. So a strenuous walk all in all.

It gives me great pleasure to count off the kilometres now. In Galicia along the Way (camino) there are markers counting down every 500m to Santiago. I passed the 40km marked today - hooray. (The markers are not that accurate because the routes have changed, but they are still fun to note.)

I reached Ribadiso at 1.30pm today and found a bed. I don´t think there is much more to this hamlet than 2 albergues, and a restaurent. As least I have´nt seen any evidence to the contrary yet. I settled in and discovered that the person in bunk next to me was Huri from Vienna and he was in the bunk next to me in Villafranca many moons ago- okay- a few days ago. So we had a good chat to catch up (in broken english as I dont speak german). I had lunch outside in this lovely restaurant and bumped into Owen an Aussie and H the Hungarian. Our paths keep on crossing. THey were walking on to Aruz, and Owen said that his older sister was staying here - look out for her. They go off, and while I was enjoying a glass of wine after eating, when 2 ladies arrive, and talk in English. So I went accross and said - are you Owen´s sister. She said yes and soon we were chatting and sharing experiences. That is what the community of the camino is like - a lot of friends sharing common and special experiences.

After that profundity, it is time to sign off - I need a snooze!

Ultreya! Suseya! God be with us! and may I be in Santiago on Friday!

Adios.

Tuesday in Palas de Rei and counting down

Heavy legs Tuesday - that is what it felt like. I left Portomarin quite early to avoid the traffic jams and had a fairly uneventful walk to Palas de Rei. This is hill country and everthing is up and down  - no level walking. Still it is through farmyards and country lanes so it is attractive walking.

There is a new frangrance that I have become quite familiar with. Besides the smell of cattle dung, I have noticed thatoften in the fields there are giant bales wrapped in plastic and they have an unusual smell - think rich, earthy, sweetish fermenting and you have it. So all these smells are good indicators of what I am passing as I walk. 

I arrived in Palas de Rei just after 1 pm as the albergues were opening, so I stopped at the first and found a bed. Around 6 in the evening I wandered off to find a supermarket to get some toiletries when I bumped in Rod and Debs - so it was a drink and supper together. We found a nice looking place which had a pilgrims meal, and I chose to have pulpo y patats (approximate recall of name). Pulpo is a speciality of Galicia ( the region I am in) so I decided I must have some. Pulpo is octopus and the dish was delicious as long as I did not look too closely at what I was eating. (Sometimes little nodules and suckers sticking out of your food can be a little disconcerting if you are not used to it.) THe octupus was served on potatoes with a delicious sauce and covered in paprika (I think). 

After dinner it was a little too late to find an internet cafe, so it was off to bed.

Adios. 

The countdown has begun in Portomarin

It varies but it is now between 94-98km to go!
It was an "interesting" walk today. Sarria is about 114km from Santiago. To achieve a compostella - the certificate to say one has completed a pilgrimage, one has to prove having walked 100km to Santiago. As I discovered today, the consequence is that a lat of people start walking in Sarria to qualify for a compostella. I was not quite prepared for the huge numbers of new people walking. Plus there were hordes of giggling and loud teeenagers walking as a group. Spread out of course, but it seemed like several schools sent their kids. At first I was angry, dissapointed , annoyed etc. Many of the new people don´t greet and it seemed like a race to reach the next place. And the teens were loud and noisy and exuberent and insufferably full of energy. I thought - give them a couple of kms and they will soon get tired. I forgot about the boundless energy of the youth. So I had to make a mind shift and decide that it was great to get kids away from TV and into the open and may the spark of true pilgrimage grow in them.

After some hours the masses had spread out a bit and new comers started to learn some manners and the Beun Camino greeting reappearred. It will be like this for the next 4 days so it is a matter of adapt or die!

About 5km from Portomarin, I passed a South African flag hanging proudly. THere was a table under it with fruit and cooldrinks - an honour stand as you take want you want and put the money in the bowl. I went iinside and spoke to the owners son. His dad (from SA) was converting this old and almost derelict building into an Albergue. Unfortunately he was out, but had a nice chat to the son. I wish him well in this venture.

I reached Portomarin by crossing a high and long bridge. On the brindge looking down into the water (although not much water) you can see the remains of a village. The authorities wanted to build a reservoir there, and they rebuilt the village of portomarin in a new place. The church was an impressive fortified Templar church, and it was dismantled stone by stone and rebuilt in the new village. I sat in it for a while and would never have believed it was down where the water is now. One other building was rebuilt stone by stone, the other buildings are new.

So Portomarin is an interesting little village. It is crammed full of pilgrims. I am sure there are more pilgrims than residents today. The leisure centre is full of mattrasses for the kids and for the overflow from the albergues. That is the real issue for the next 4 days - the unseemly scramble to get a bed before a place is completo (full).

BUT -4 days to go. I estimate that I should reach Santiago by Friday if all goes well. It doesnt seem real that I am so close. On the 20th May - one month ago - I had reached madrid in the morning, and then went by bus to Roncesvalles to start walking. It seems like forever ago.

For me now it off to bed so I can start in good time tomorrow.

Adios.