Still in Madrid

Just a quick note to say that I spent the day at the Museo Prada and the Thyssen Art Gallery viewing some of the most incredible art collections in the world. Saw rather too much- but still filled with the beauty of art.

Tomorrow night - actually just after midnight, I return to SA.

Adios from Madrid.
Goodbye

A few days in Madrid before returning home

I got into Santiago de compostella on Friday as I recorded in the last post.
Saturday and Sunday were a time of reunions - meeting pilgrims from all stages of the walk who had made it. That in it itself was a great experience.

Many of the pilgrims go to Finisterre as well. Some walk there - another 4 days of walking and others take the bus. The name Finisterre means - the end of the world - because in medieval times it was the end of the known world - just ocean lay beyond. They often would burn their clothes - they would have been smelly rags by this time - as put on new clothes. I decided not to go there as it is not the end of the world for me, and we have better beaches in SA. My camino ended by reaching Santiago, going to the Pilgrims mass - more about that in due course - and getting my compostella.

I wanted to go to Madrid on Monday to discover this city before returning home on the morning of the 30th June. However all the express busses were full - only the slowbus which takes 10hours was available. So I left on Sunday night and took the overnight trip. It was a dreadful journey as it is almost impossible for me to sleep on the bus. I got to Madrid early on Monday morning found the hostal I had booked and lest my bags there as it was too early to check in.

So in a rather tired state I explored some of the centre of Madrdid before I checked in and had a snooze. Madrid lacks the charm of Santiago. It looks like an 18|19th century city - very beautiful but not interesting to me from an antiquity side. Hovere it does have some of the greatest art museums in the world - and that is what I will be exploring tomorrow.

So I return to SA on Thursday morning. I am looking forward to be at home again.

So from Madrid - Adios.

Glory Alleluia - I am in Santiago de Compostella

784km and 35 days ago I set out from Roncesvalles and today I reached the Field of Stars - Santiago de Compostella.

Last night in the albergue there was a palpable sense of excitement. The local village was also excited as there were all sorts of feasts happening - local saint and also the summer solstice (I think). It seems there were celebrations across Spain and a lot of it involved building bonfires and jumping over them. As pilgrims we were excluded from the festivities because we had to be back in the albergue by 10.30pm and festivities were only starting then. But our excitement was due to the wonderful sensation of knowing that we had only 20km left to walk.

I have arrived!

Others set off early as usual, but I leisurely only set off about 7.30am. Pedrouzo is a little village in an eucalyptus forest and it was lovely going down the fragrant (no cows) leafy lanes through the forest. 10km from Santiago the urban sprawl began, and it was just a slog into the city. I reached the cathedral at 12.30pm - and my walk was over. I immediately started meeting pilgrims, and took fotos to record it. Mass was on in the cathedral, so the next order of business was to find a bed. Pat from Ireland pointed  to a buiding and siad they were staying there. I went across, found a room in the Residencia la Estella and 15 euros a night - a real bargain. As I come out of the front door, I go up some steps and I am in the Plaza of the cathedral. The cathedral is to my right, The Hotel Reyes Catolicos is across the plaza and the Municiple Offices to the left - all magnificent ancient buildings. My humble little residensia suits me fine.

Pilgrim's Mass in the Cathedral 

So after settling in, I went to the cathedral and prayed at the tomb of St James the Apostle, and went around to behind his statue and gave him a hug. This what pilgrims do, by the way. Came out, and had a long reunion lunch spanish style, and then got my compostella - a certificate to say that I completed the camino.

Later went out again and met the whole bunch of people, some of whom I last saw in Pamplona. Now I have returned to my residensia, written up this happy blog and suddenly feel rather tired.
Tomorrow will be very strange indeed - waking up and not starting to walk. I almost feel lost already!
But now  I will soon be in bed, and so I can joyfully say:
Adios from Santiago.

Almost there - Thursday in Pedrouzo

TOMORROW IN SANTIAGO. Can´t believe I am almost there.

Since Sarria I have intersecting with Pat and friend from Ireland and the Channel Islands. On the way to Ribadiso yesterday we stopped at the same cafe in Melide to have a cup of coffee. Pat was down in the dumps and not enjoying the walk and about an hour later I discovered why. I came acrross them at a little stream preparing to cross. It seems Pat had walked the camino before and knew this was coming. It was a teeny weeny little stream - about 2m wide and about 30cm deep. Pat was in distress and was preparing to take of her boots and walk acrross. That doesn`t sound much, but for someone on the camino to have wet feet/shoes/socks is a disaster because that´s how you get blisters. And that is what Pat was ready to risk because she was scared of walking across the bridge. The bridge consisted of stone blocks about 30cm wide and 1/2m long put together forming a little bridge. The blocks were uneven and rounded at the edges, specially on the other side. Pat was terrified of losing her balance and her fears made that little bridge into a tightrope across the grand canyon.

I came up and joined in the discussion of how to get Pat accross. I told her to give me her pack and I would carry it across as it would be a lot easier without the extra weight. Her friend took her water bottle, and Pat ventured across. She inched her way across , but made it and we all clapped. It took all of 3 seconds to walk across with her pack in hand. I gave it to her and she said to me: Thank you Keith, you are such a gentleman.

I am telling this long and detailed story because I was very interested to reflect on what this compliment meant to me.I felt good after that, and the rest of the walking was so easy. I reflected on how important ones attitude  is. That simple little compliment made the physical effort of walking easier. In sports, ones frame of mind can be so important. And in daily life, when I feel good about who I am, then life is beautiful. The trick of course is not to rely on other people to make me feel good, but to make that decision about my emotions myself.

So after my philosophising, a little note to say that lastnight I intended to have a bite to eat and retire, but sat at a table with Huri and Loreto - an Argentinian living in Madrid, and her friend Victoria whose father is a sculptor. And a simple snack turned into sampling Spanish food and the local specialty called Ribeiro - an excellent white wine, and mini pimentos - green peppers for us- grilled in a Galician way etc. We all had to dash back to the albergue ( about 20m away) before the doors were locked. So it was a late start today, and a lesurely walk to Perdrouzo (or Pedrouzo not sure) because Paulo phoned ahead and reserved places in a private albergue. Tonight is the feast of San Juan - linked with the longest day of summer so it looks like fiesta time here. Interesting.

Tomorrow we walk into Santiago - about 20km. WOW.

So from Pedrouzo - Adios.

Wednesday in Ribadiso do Baixo and 45km to go !!!!!!

People started leaving the albergue incredibly early this morning. The person in the bunk above me had an alarm that went off at 5.15am and at 5.45am he was out of the dorm. I surfaced a little later and at 6.35am was walking down the stairs - a new record for me - and I was alarmed to note that most people had gone already. What was I missing? In any case I plodded along and soon warmed up in the morning chill. Today´s walk was 26km to Ribadiso. Some people were walking further, but 26km is enough for me. I had more energy today - just as well because there were a LOT of ups and EVEN MORE downs to contend with. So a strenuous walk all in all.

It gives me great pleasure to count off the kilometres now. In Galicia along the Way (camino) there are markers counting down every 500m to Santiago. I passed the 40km marked today - hooray. (The markers are not that accurate because the routes have changed, but they are still fun to note.)

I reached Ribadiso at 1.30pm today and found a bed. I don´t think there is much more to this hamlet than 2 albergues, and a restaurent. As least I have´nt seen any evidence to the contrary yet. I settled in and discovered that the person in bunk next to me was Huri from Vienna and he was in the bunk next to me in Villafranca many moons ago- okay- a few days ago. So we had a good chat to catch up (in broken english as I dont speak german). I had lunch outside in this lovely restaurant and bumped into Owen an Aussie and H the Hungarian. Our paths keep on crossing. THey were walking on to Aruz, and Owen said that his older sister was staying here - look out for her. They go off, and while I was enjoying a glass of wine after eating, when 2 ladies arrive, and talk in English. So I went accross and said - are you Owen´s sister. She said yes and soon we were chatting and sharing experiences. That is what the community of the camino is like - a lot of friends sharing common and special experiences.

After that profundity, it is time to sign off - I need a snooze!

Ultreya! Suseya! God be with us! and may I be in Santiago on Friday!

Adios.

Tuesday in Palas de Rei and counting down

Heavy legs Tuesday - that is what it felt like. I left Portomarin quite early to avoid the traffic jams and had a fairly uneventful walk to Palas de Rei. This is hill country and everthing is up and down  - no level walking. Still it is through farmyards and country lanes so it is attractive walking.

There is a new frangrance that I have become quite familiar with. Besides the smell of cattle dung, I have noticed thatoften in the fields there are giant bales wrapped in plastic and they have an unusual smell - think rich, earthy, sweetish fermenting and you have it. So all these smells are good indicators of what I am passing as I walk. 

I arrived in Palas de Rei just after 1 pm as the albergues were opening, so I stopped at the first and found a bed. Around 6 in the evening I wandered off to find a supermarket to get some toiletries when I bumped in Rod and Debs - so it was a drink and supper together. We found a nice looking place which had a pilgrims meal, and I chose to have pulpo y patats (approximate recall of name). Pulpo is a speciality of Galicia ( the region I am in) so I decided I must have some. Pulpo is octopus and the dish was delicious as long as I did not look too closely at what I was eating. (Sometimes little nodules and suckers sticking out of your food can be a little disconcerting if you are not used to it.) THe octupus was served on potatoes with a delicious sauce and covered in paprika (I think). 

After dinner it was a little too late to find an internet cafe, so it was off to bed.

Adios. 

The countdown has begun in Portomarin

It varies but it is now between 94-98km to go!
It was an "interesting" walk today. Sarria is about 114km from Santiago. To achieve a compostella - the certificate to say one has completed a pilgrimage, one has to prove having walked 100km to Santiago. As I discovered today, the consequence is that a lat of people start walking in Sarria to qualify for a compostella. I was not quite prepared for the huge numbers of new people walking. Plus there were hordes of giggling and loud teeenagers walking as a group. Spread out of course, but it seemed like several schools sent their kids. At first I was angry, dissapointed , annoyed etc. Many of the new people don´t greet and it seemed like a race to reach the next place. And the teens were loud and noisy and exuberent and insufferably full of energy. I thought - give them a couple of kms and they will soon get tired. I forgot about the boundless energy of the youth. So I had to make a mind shift and decide that it was great to get kids away from TV and into the open and may the spark of true pilgrimage grow in them.

After some hours the masses had spread out a bit and new comers started to learn some manners and the Beun Camino greeting reappearred. It will be like this for the next 4 days so it is a matter of adapt or die!

About 5km from Portomarin, I passed a South African flag hanging proudly. THere was a table under it with fruit and cooldrinks - an honour stand as you take want you want and put the money in the bowl. I went iinside and spoke to the owners son. His dad (from SA) was converting this old and almost derelict building into an Albergue. Unfortunately he was out, but had a nice chat to the son. I wish him well in this venture.

I reached Portomarin by crossing a high and long bridge. On the brindge looking down into the water (although not much water) you can see the remains of a village. The authorities wanted to build a reservoir there, and they rebuilt the village of portomarin in a new place. The church was an impressive fortified Templar church, and it was dismantled stone by stone and rebuilt in the new village. I sat in it for a while and would never have believed it was down where the water is now. One other building was rebuilt stone by stone, the other buildings are new.

So Portomarin is an interesting little village. It is crammed full of pilgrims. I am sure there are more pilgrims than residents today. The leisure centre is full of mattrasses for the kids and for the overflow from the albergues. That is the real issue for the next 4 days - the unseemly scramble to get a bed before a place is completo (full).

BUT -4 days to go. I estimate that I should reach Santiago by Friday if all goes well. It doesnt seem real that I am so close. On the 20th May - one month ago - I had reached madrid in the morning, and then went by bus to Roncesvalles to start walking. It seems like forever ago.

For me now it off to bed so I can start in good time tomorrow.

Adios.

Celebrating Sunday in Sarria

 I had a good nights rest after a pilgrims meal with my Kiwi friends, rod and Debs. I set of at 7.30 and made the momentous to actually walk further! I decided to go to Samos, the home of a hug Benedictine monastery over a 1000 years old. Just before 10 I eached the monastery and managed to have just 5 min in the church before it was closed. I just spent time wandering around in awe of where I as, had breakfast with Gabriella from Germany who as going to stay in the Albergue there ( she is fascinated by the sense holiness and history there) and then at 11.15 decided I had better walk on to Sarria, my stop for the night as it was still 12km away. I took the scenic route which took me through farms and forests, along narrow little paths next to rushing streams - I know I am waxing idyllic, but that is what it was like. Then the last 4 km into the large town ofSarria were boring and hot and dull next to a road. For the 1st time the path had soft sand on it - quite achange from the rocky and gravelly paths I have got used to. I reached Sarria around 3, and found a dull boring town. No matter - all he more reason to have a good rest.

After settling into an Albergue, I listened to Jesus of Nazareth - the audiobook by Pope Ben16 - for about 2 hours. I am so impressed by the book -  it is quite accessible and not full of the academic language that I expected.

Had a meal with a lady from Ireland and another from Channel Islands - both were quite different from the usual pilgrim that I have encountered.

And now for something sensational - only 114km to Santiago- that is only an hours drive for you, buta week of walking for me!
With that profound thought - adios

And Saturday in Triacastella

Friday night was freezing cold in O Cebreiro. We were in the clouds and it was just bitter. And the worst thing was that the albergue did not have any blankets. I slept with all my clothes on just to stay warm. Normaly the dormitories are hot and stuffy, but not in this place. I woke wondering how my legs would be wouldI be able move them or ot - and they were okay. Hooray - there is life in the old boy yet. So at 7.30am - a late start because it would be a short walk of 20km - I set off. It was overcast and drizzly and still very cold, so I was in full rain gear. And then the path started going UP. Fortunately the ups were mild and soon we were going down. After an hour all the raingear came off as it warmed up. Then a cloud came over - jacket back on, raincover for pack back on. THen the sun came again and it was like this all morning. We are now in Galicia, in the mountains and hill country. It is green and lush and lots of cows. Many times the trail went through little villages with more cows than humans. THe last 3 hours were a steady downhill - and steep in places when I had to grit teeeth and slowly take baby steps down.

Apart from some steep bits it was a pleasant walk downhill. REached Triacastella at lunchtime and found a bed and did the usual washing and rest. Then I attended a pilgrims mass in the local church - and a most unusual mass. THe priest was in his 60s - and very welcoming. He had pilgrims gathered round the altar, kept on inserting explanations and ad-libbing quite a bit. But he did include lots of languages and we got some strange translations as well. Interesting, but I was pleased he tried so hard.

I have just come from having a rather good pilgrims meal at one of the local places, and so ready for bed. Tomorrow will take us to SArria and there is a longer route in the country past Samos monastery and a shorter route along the tar road. Another Decision for tomorrow.

Goodnight and adios.

Triumph in O Cebreiro on Friday 17th

I had a quiet evening in Villafranca. I attended mass at the Collegiate Church of Sancta Maria. The big catherdrals in Spain have an unusual feature. Plonked right in the middle of the building is is the Choir. This is an elaborate double set of seats for the monks to chant the Divine Office etc. The seats are huge, carved in wood, and the choir contains high walls around it / the effect is a huge bulding plonked right in the middle of the church. All this is to explain my experience at mass. Here was another big church built for some nobleman, and it serves as the parish churcxh in VIllafrance and it also has a CHoir right in the middle. Here the parish priest uses the choir for weekday masses, just as we use the transept in St Johns for mass. Normally these choirs are blocked off, so it was interesing to bein the middle of it.

Friday dawns and a challemge lies ahead. The walk today will be 20km of gentle ascents and then 7km of very steep ascents with all sorts of warnings. I thought I would see how it goes. So I set off and and started walking. The route followed the N6 and the new highway called A6. It was a stunnung evironment in the foothills of the mountains, and often the roads and highways were immense bypasses towering above us. I passed through various towns and finally reached Vega.... at 17km. Here I had to decide- sleep over here or press on - and I decided to poress on.  I went through a few more villages and then reached Hospital de Inglezes. I passed through the few houses, crossed a bridge, and then there on the road was written - HELL BEGINS HERE. And it was true. The path began a steep ascent.And rose. And continued. forever it seemed. Never did 7 km feel so long. We were walking through forests and the path was constanting twist and turning - spiralling higher and higher. So you could not see your destination - just this steep path going higher and higher. With legs burning we plodded on.

Walking along paths in Spain, there are always plants, flowers, green stuff, on the verge. THere are lots of this yellow bush - almost tree - with small yellow flowers and as I pass I get a whiff of perfume. There  are plants with the frangrance of vanilla/lemon/baking and I do a double take looking for the kitchen. There are some other fragent plants, including lavender. Walking up this steep path I will always assosaciate with a frangrance - not of perfume or vanilla but of cow dung. This is cow country, and they regularly walk this path and every couple of metres come the fragrant whiff of cow dung, and it comes with a quick side step to avoid standing in it.

THe slog upwards continued, and it took over 3 hours before I reached the top and the village of O Cebreiro and shout - we have triumphed.

I felt really chuffed that I had made. Checked into the albergue, and found my Kiwi friends - Rod and Debs- there. So we had a earrly supper and soon bunked down for awell earned rest.

I still am not eating very much as my stomach is slowly coming right. At supper I could only eat half as much as usual. I probably lost a couple of kilos these last few days - so things cant be all that bad.

So that is the triumph of O Cebreiro. We are now in Galicia - it is downhill from here.

Adios.

Thursday in Villafranca del Bierzo

In Molinseca I was contemplating taking a rest day so that I dont push my body too hard. Well I had enforced rest day a little later.

Tuesday morning I set out for Cacabelos, thinking to make 2 30km walks into 3 walks of 20km each. The walk to Cacabelos was pleasant, although it meant going through Ponferrado which is a city. I dslike walking through cities - much preferthe countrysde and small villages. After Ponferrado, we went throgh rolling hills, lots of vineyards, and the day got steadily hotter. In Cacabelos I settled int a hostal which is more expensive than a albergue, but you get single rooms. I decided I needed to treat myself. I was wandering through Plaza Mayor (every village seems to have a plaza mayor - it is like the main square of each village) to find out when te pilgrim´s mass was. At a cafe there I bumped into Franz and Gunter and some other Germans I last saw in Terredillos and we had a great reunion. We were drinking Klara allemagne ( no idea of spelling) but i s half beer half fizzy limedrink - great on a hot day.

That evening I had a light snack at a local cafe - and that was my downfall because I woke up the next morning with diarrhea and nausea. I guess I had eaten or drunk something not quite kosher. So I checked in for another day in the hostal, got rehydration stuff and tried to get it all out of my system. So I had my rest day, but not in theway I imagined.

Today, Thursday, felt well enough for a short walk only, and so walked only 7km to Villafranca del Bierza. Villafranca is a lovely little village and most pilgrims stay here because there is a tough climb up to O Cebreiro. O Cebreiro is in Galicia, and that means you are on the home stretch to Santiago. Galicia is always green and verdant because it gets so much rain - so the rain gear wll be put into action again.

Between Villafranca and O Cebreiro there are a few stops, so how far I wak will depend on how I feel.

Just a little correction for Monday´s post. The Ferro Cruz is not the higest point on the camino - it is a waymarker for pilgrims to find their way through the mountains. The high point is about 30min walk after the Ferro Cruz.

So that is all my news at the moment. By walking more slowly, I am losing a second day here, but I reckon I still have time to reach SAntiago.

So, Adios from Villafranca.

Monday and I am in Molinaseca

But before I tell you about the significance of today´s trip, some more adventures from yesterday.

Last night at 7 in the afternoon (according to the spanish it is afternoon and not evening yet!) I attended vesperes in the little church in Rabanal. There were 3 monks from the Benedictine monastery next door - just a tiny little monastery- and with the help of a few regulards, sang vespers which is evening prayer of the church. Most of it was in Latin and I was delighted to have eveningprayer on Pentecost. A lot of the pilgrims attended as well and the little church was quite full. I only recognised 2 of the chants, but even then did not join in as I might spoil the harmony by singing flat. The scripture reading is usually read by pilgrims in english, german, spanish and french. I was one of the few english speakers so I did the reading. At the end of vespers, there was benediction. Afterwards I was intriduced to one of the priests and he had been to south africa to Inkamana Abbey in Vryheid, Natal, and was a classmate of the present abbot. I had met the previous abbot, who was also a classmate. Small world indeed that in a tiny ( and I mean tiny - about 30 houses in the village) place like Rabanal in Spain I find a southafrican connection.

After vespers I had the pilgrims dinner nearby and then attended compline or night prayer with the monks. This time the psalms were prayed in spanish, and there was a special blessing at the end for the pilgrims.

I am still fascinated by the characters that I meet - mind you I suppose I am one to others! In Astroga I paid 2.5 euro to go into the museum as well as the cathedral. There was a little man in front of me and in English he complained to the poor lady selling tickets that they were playing french organ music in the cathedral when they should be playing Spanish organ music - this to someone who only had a few words of english. I was amused at the time but thought nothing more of it. In Rabanal I discover this man is a pilgrim and staying at the same albergue, is from Ireland, is a church organist and has an opinion about everything. The little bearded Irishman (lbi) always found something wrong, and his way was better. We sat in the garden having tea and he would always chip in with his comments. Any way, after vespers I was chatting and was last to go into the restaurant for the pilgrims meal. I found a seat at a table with a young frenchman called Jean who was cycling from Bordeaux to Santiago. The tables were close to each other and so conversations flowed across tables and the lbi was sitting to my right. At one stage he leant accross to me and said: "I didnt want to say it to the hospitalero (who had prepared tea today), But I saw the eggs that went into the cake and they would be used better in an omelette." I was rather nonplussed by this, so gave my non-committal grunt and contemplated the myteries of eggs while eating my creme caramel.

So Monday I set out with good cheer to face the challenges of the day. The walk would take us up about 800m in elevation to the Ferro Cruz and then the tough part - a steep and perilous descent to Molinaseca.

About 30 min into the walk, climbing ever higher, I stopped and realised I felt good and my legs were good, and then I knew then I could walk anywhere and do anything and it was such a liberating feeling that my heart sang for joy. I finished the climb up to Ferro Cruz easily, tossed my stone onto the pile, had my photo taken, rejoiced that I had reached the highest spot on the pilgrimage, and began the descent. The Ferro Cruz or iron cross has been a marker for the route throught he mountains since medieval times.

The descent was tough and really hard on my knees, but I made to Molinaseca - a largish village. But I wont explore and will instead marshall my resources for tomorrow. i seem to have lost most of the people I have been travelling with in this albergue, but no matter - new friends are there to be made.

And now for some rest.

Adios

Sunday 12 June and I am in Rabanal del Camino

Today I am amazed to discover that my feet were fine when I woke up today. I set out late today because I met Else from Denmark and Kirsty from Norway for break fast. It was Kirsty´s last day and as the 3 of us kept on bumping into each other all the time, we had become good friends and so had one last breakfast together.

So it was at 8.15am that I set out for Rabanal and had a good walk. The way took us through rolling hills, mostly open country, through some forests and the like. It got very hot as the day progressed and we were constantly on a gentle climb. Still it was a good walk and I reached Rabanal feeling good - could have walked another 10km - that good and feet and legs felt like we had only been out for a stroll. Amazing how it happens.

I am staying in what is now for me the best albergue so far. It is run by the Confraternity of St James UK and is in the converted former house of the parish priest. It is small - only 36 beds, has a huge garden and is just an attractive place. We even had tea (earl grey) and cake in the garden at 4.00pm. The hospitaleros ( person who runs the albergue) are volunteers from England and are such a friendly bunch.

There is a small benedictine monastery next door, and we will have evening prayer with the monks at 7.00pm with the blessing of the stones which we will place at the Ferro Cruz tomorrow. Sounds mysterious, but all will be revealed in due course.

So I head off now to vespers and the evening meal.

Adios

Saturday in Astroga

It is with a heavy heart I write this because this stupid computer would not post the the last 15min of typing. So I have to begin again. Big sigh.

So let me pick up the pieces in Villa de Mazarife. I had a good eveing there. For the evening meal we all gathered in the dining room and at the table of 10 people, I had met 8 at various stages along the Way - that is the wonderful thing about the camino community. The meal was excellent and included pumpkin soup which confused all the europeans at table. The kiwis and myself were the only ones familiar with it! I had a good nights rest because the dormitory was spacious and not full.

I set out early on Saturday with much trepidation - todays walk would be 30-32km (depending on which guide book we consulted).  One interesting I passed through was Hospital de Obriga as it had a stone bridge of 19 arches - the longest stone bridge in Spain. I finally reached the brow of a hill at 2.00pm and looked down on Astroga with the catherdral the clearly standing out. I descended into the town of SanJuan and it took 30min to walk thru it. That only lead to the outskirts of Astroga and it took another hour of walking to reach the albergue. That is the frustrating thing about cities - you see them and it takes forever to walk thru them. Anyway I was really tired by then and stayed in the Albergue San Xavier, accross the way from the cathedral in an ancient creaky building. My feet were aching and my legs were stiff - but I made it- my longest walk to date. I was so tired and my feet so sore that after a rest I only went as far as the cathedral and Gaudi´s palace next to it. There was a chocolate exhibition about 7 blocks away and I forewent the pleasures of chocolate because it meant walking there!

I attended the vigil mass for pentecost at the Carmelite convent - which was facing the albergue. Then went with some other pilgrims to the Hotel Gaudi for a fancy pilgrims meal. Only pilgrims at my albergue get a special card which allows them to do it. Had a great eveing and went to bed with sore feet.

However I woke up feeling fine on Sunday - feet and legs recovered. But that is for the next post!
Adios.

And now to Villar de Mazarife on Friday 10th June

I left Leon at 7.00am this morning and it was only by 9.00am that I left the urban area - although I did note that the Way meandered past all the important buildings to get out of Leon! It was all urban up to the next town of Virgen del Camino 7km away. Then the way splits - you can take the road route which follows the main road or the walkers route which is 7km longer but goes through country side. I decided to go the walkers route. For about 9km I was walking through countryside which has changed from the mesetas. It is no longer flat but rolling hills, and for the first time in weeks I walked through bush. Every single km in the mesetas is cultivated with wheat and other cereals. It was wonderful to untamed land - for a few kms. In Leon I  bought another walking stick and so I have been practising today. I quickly got into the rhythm of walking with 2 sticks. There are mountains ahead and I have seen how 2 sticked have helped lots of walkers. I thought it prudent to get some help going downhill. Walking with 2 sticks has definitly taken some of the sting of the uphills, and it helps me as well goung downhill. So I am a convert. I have also learnt another strategy for coping with downhills - walking in a zigzag fashion. It seems to lessen the decline and makes it easier. Now you know what pilkgrims discuss in the evenings- walking sticks, the route, uphills, feet, blisters and aching legs!

Todays walk was 21km to Villar de Mazarife and I have settled into the San Antonio albergue I look forward to vegetarian paella for supper tonight. Yay.
Actually apart from that it is a small place - only 20 beds, not full, cosy and comfortable depite some new-agey decorations.

Tomorrow I face a 30km walk - not looking forward to that as 20 - 24 km is a comfortable walk for me.
Adios

Thursday 9th June and into Leon

The feeling unwell yesterday was an upset stomach: Fortunately I am over it and feeling fine. I will do this posr on 2 separate entries to try and keep things in order. It is interesting how the outside world has vaninshe and I live just for today.

Bercianos de Real Camino was a tiny place and the albergue was a donativo place - it means it runs on donations and volunteers come to run it. Two brothers from the Rioja region were there on duty for 2 weeks. They only spoke spanish so it was fun communicating with the many foreigners. They had with them their dog - a massive boxer called Atilla. The albergue was overflowing - it had 50 beds and another 14 people sleeping on mattrasses in varius spaces. Incidently the previos night there were only 41 pilgrims there. ANyway we had a community meal. One brother cooked paella and it came out in 2 huges dishes. The pilgrims supplied the wine, and so the songs flowed as well. We were all squeezed into a tiny space, but still managed - lots of fun. Any the paella was not bad.

The next morning (Thursday) I was up bright and early - because the rest of the dormitory was! The original plan was to walk to Reliegos (21km) and stay there overnight. The walk was pleasant and unexpetional (ie I dont remeber much) in the Mesetas. It is flat and hot, although still chilly or even cold early in the mornings.

I reached Reliegos about 12ish and stopped at the cafe and had lunch with Else from Denmark. We had been bumping into each other for the last couple of days. Over lunch we decided not to stay but press on for Leon. So we walked another 6 km to Mansilla de las Mulas and caught a bus into Leon for the last 18km. The way goes through a dreary strip of industry and none of us wanted to walk it. This way I managed to regain a day, which I want to use in a rather long stage later.

So it was a 27km walk and I magaed okay - well it was rather flat. Leon is a large city and I have to admit not enjoying the cities so much - prefer the country towns any day while walking. I found a bed in the Convento Santa Maria de las Carbajas - Benedictine nuns who run an albergue with volunteers.

After settling in and meeting with Dan the american who had to take off 2 days to recover after walking too much, and with Kiwis Debs and Rod whom I last saw in Burgos (they had foot problems and took the train), i went of the Cathedral . a magnificent Gothic church. After all the spanish baroque I have seen , it was great to see some gothic. The cathedral is renowned for its stained glass windows and there were stunningly beautiful. At the cathedral I bumped into Kirsty from Norway - she had also taken the bus. That is the great joy of the camino - meeting up with people at all odd times along the way.

Attended mass in the convent and about 20 nuns were there. They sang the mass in a typical nun´s gentle reverential style - which did not impress Kirsty who wanted something more dramatic. Had a pilgrims meal and to bed for a miserable night. The matrasses (sp?) were thin so hipbones sat on wood, there were no pillows or blankets, and my bed was near the window letting in the outside lights.  Not going there again!

So that was Thursday.  Adios

Wednesday 8th June and it is Bercianos del Real Camino

Once again internet access was scarce, and now I am running out of time so a shorter post today. Back in Carrion on Monday there was a pilgrims mass in a 12th century church - stunning. Had the pilgrims meal at a  local bar with Kristy from norway, the retired professor and Elena from Toronto who is into ecology and recycling. Had a pleasant walk on Tuesday to Terradillos de los Templarios.

You might have noticed that sometimes I stay at different places from the list I put up in the church foyer. Some days I take rest days and this throws out the schuedule. Or like now when I have changed the route slightly depending on accomadation.

I reached Terradillos quite early, but what is of concern is that by 2.30pm the albergue was full and pilgrims had to look elsewhere. I expect the situation to get worse and it is an unpleasant consequence of the explosion of interest in the Camino.

The albergue was lovely, and the room I was in had only 4 beds - again luxury. Terradillos used to be a Templar stronghold - now it is a tiny hamlet and and survives on pilgrims. The meal was in the albergue and I had it with a german, a belgian, a hollander and 3 south african ladies - Marlise and Sybil from Stellenbosch and a friend from Oudthoorn, -lots of laughter.

Left very early for Bercianos because my room mates did. Walked to Bercianos so that tommorrow will be shorter. I stayed in a rural and quaint albergue. Felt quite rotten this afternoon and just slept. Feeling better now and shortly will head to have a community meal. I have 30 seconds left on the clock left so let me post this now.
Adios.

Monday 6th June and I am in Carrion de los Condes

I have put the date in the heading to remind me when it is - here each day just sort of happens with no relation to outside world. I am not sure of the spelling of names of towns as I dont have my guide book with me.

Two days ago I was in Castrojeriz - an interesting little village that exists for the camino. It was first built in Roman times, allegedly founded by Julius Caesar on his military expeditions. It still has the ruins of a castle on top of the hill, but no ways was I going to climb it. I had a pilgrims meal with the usual intersting bunch of people- there was Al from Canada, Kristy from Norway, Else from Denmark, and Dereck & Anna from Australia. Again we were together because of English. There are huge numbers of Germans, French and Spaniards walking the camino. They form the majority with the rest of the world making up the rest. Dereck and Anna work in hospitals and I first met them in Rubiri after my first day of walking. Kirsty has just retired from being professor of Spanish in Norway. Al is a non-catholic married to a catholic from a strong catholic family. He has retired from being an accountant and his wife works at the local catholic university (I think in New Brunswick). Al and I were talking about why we are walking the camino. He said that he struggles to explain why. Mostly it is deepening the sense of his own spirituality. He is touched by the whole experience of being a pilgrim, but admits that the camaraderie at the end of a days walking, when pilgrims are enjoying a meal and recounting their experiences and sharing news and about themselves - that is one of his favourite moments.

We had this meal in a bar-restaurante (hat is what they are called in spain) which looked a little grotty in the bar part, but was so lovely in the dining part. The host, Diego, came up and didnt just give a menu, instead he asked where we were from and chatted a bit before producing the choices from the menu of the day. He was genuinely interested and friendly. It is special to meet this kind of relaxed hospitality.

It was a 26km walk from Castrojeriz to Fromista on Sunday. Again I had a good walk and enjoyed it. About 2km out of town we climded this hill at a 12 degre incline (accoring to the sign). It was a serious challenge for me - a very intesive 45min and then we had to go down again! But after that it was the flat undulating plains of the mesetas - wheatfields as far as the eye could see. I reached Fromista in good time. In Fromista there is a stunning Romanesque style of church which has been restored to its original glory. You will have to wait till I get back to see the pics! I stayed at the albergue municipal - quite a large one, but with lots of familiar faces.

This is one aspect that is disappointing for me. Since Burgos, it seems to me that the number of pilgrims is increasing. In the last couple of days while walking, I have not being out of sight of a pilgrim. Often I can count and many as 5 ahead of me, and a number behind. I miss Navarra, when there were more occasions when one was alone with the road.

Walking is a time of reflection and I am enjoying it immensly. Often I spend time reflecting on the past and becoming more comfortable with myself. Sounds strange, but that is the best way of describing it.

In Fromista I joined Peter from the previous day and I had a paella for supper. Cant be in spain and not have a paella. And then I was in bed by 9.30pm! Lights out were at 10, but we have these incredibly eager pilgrims who wake up everyone when they leave at 5.30 in the morning. So I was awake early and left Fromista at 7.00 on the dot. Todays walk was short - only 19km and I reached Carrion de los Condes at 11.00am. 4 hours to walk 19km - felt pretty pleased about that (though it was as flat as a pancake which did make it easier). I am staying in the monastery of Santa Clara and we are only 4 to a room - what luxury! I felt a little lost arriving so early, but soon washed, did washing and got into relaxing mode. THen the rain came down and I still have wet socks. Woe is me. They will have to dangle from my backpack tomorrow until they are dry (assuming it doesnt rain tomorrow). I came out in the rain to find an intenet cafe to write this blog - arent I good!

Tommorrow is going to be a tough walk - 26km with no shade and perhaps 1 stop along the way. Near Calzadillo I will be halfway on the Way to Santiago!!!!!! So I will head of to rest.
Adios from Carrion de los Condes. (Cant help repeating that name - word association - dead meat of the condor).
Adios

4th June and I am in Castrojeriz

Let me go back to Burgos. Large city which bills itself as the city of El Cid. And I regret now not boning up on Spanish history before coming here. Spent time exploring an extraordinary gothic cathedral. In the museum attached there was a 9th century parchment, a 10th century bible amongst other fascinating things. Had an early night as it was freezing cold in Burgos. So I set off the next morning with a cold wind blowing. The way wound itself through the outskirts of the city and after a good 45 min ofwalking finally reached countryside. It was an 18km walk to Hornillos del CAmino - a tiny village which survives on agriculture and the pilgrims staying over. The sun was shining, but there was still a bitterly cold wind blowing. And there was no internet access in the entire village. Had a pilgrims meal with 2 Australians I first met back in Zubiri after my first day of walking. They had had a tough time with blisters, headcolds etc. It was a cheerful group of pilgrims sitting in the square relaxing and talking.

Then today I was very good - I left at 7.00am to start walking. I have walked through the mountains and forests of Navarra, the vineyards and hills of Rioja (a major wine region) and now past Burgos, I am walking in the mesetas. It is describes as flat hot dusty plains, but I am walking before the harvet, and it is not flat as the Highveld is flat. The best way of describing it wouls low rolling hills covered in wheatfields - all greeen at the moment. It is good walking the mesetas - never tough inclines and few tough descents. In August the temp rises to the 40´s and it is brown. Now it looks beautiful to me with the green wheat, the red poppies and wildflowers on the verges and the lush vegetation everywhere. I arrived in Castrojeriz at 12.15pm - five hour walk doing 20km. The amazing thing is I felt comfortable and could have walked another 10km without blinking an eyelid. This is the first time I have arrived and I was not tired in any way. However I had better not speak too soon, as I see a couple of 30km legs coming up. I was looking at the schedule and I see I am 3 days away from the halfway mark. It just doesnt seem real.

The alberge I am staying in is best described as quaint. It is old and rickety, but clean and full of pilgrims familiar from travelling together. Today I walked a good distance with Peter, an Englishman living in Grenada, Spain, and he is 75 years old. He describes himself as an atheist, and is walking the camino to discover that which is spiritual in him.

Sleeping in dorms is always a challenge, and I have found a lovely way to reflect in the noise of the dorm at night. I brought an ipod with me, and on it I have some cds called Chants for Prayer, similar in style to Taize, and based on gregorian chant. At night I plug in my earphones, listen to a chant and all the noise behind me disappears.

Tomorrow I face a 26km walk, and it is getting warmer and warmer.

So, looking forward to tomorrow, it is Adios.

Thursday and it is Burgos

Hi Friends
Thanks for the comments. Unfortunately I am unable to upload pictures as yet because my camera uses a sdhc card and most of the places I´ve been to are unable to read the card. There was no update yesterday as there was no internet access in Atapuerta. Please also excuse all the errors and mispellings etc - I have not yet worked out how to find an English spellcheck. The spanish one tells me that every word is wrong.

Back to the story.

Two days ago I arrived in Villafranca...... It is a tiny little village and as it was raining off and on, I did not do any exploring. The alberge was comforatable and clean and so I just rested and chatted. At least 10 people were familiar from walking along the Way. Little communities like this are formed all the time. Debs and Rod and myself decided to have the pilgrims meal in the hotel (the alberge is cheap and for pilgrims only, the hotel is expensive and for everyone - all in the same building.) So we dined in style that night.

The next morning we set off late as the walk was not long - only about 18-20km I think. However the guide books all listed 3 steep peaks (or inclines) in the elevation maps so we were all dreading it. There was a difficult climb out of town and then it was plain sailing the rest of the way. Either I am getting a lot stronger or the guide books are not that accurate! I reached Atapuerta early afternoon and found a comfortable alberge. It was small, had a garden and was just comfortable in this tiny village of about 30 houses. I chose to stop there because it would mean an easy 20km walk into the city of Burgos the next day.

A bunch of us, including Nigel the Brit living in Germany, Julie the American from Maryland, the Kiwis and myself had the usual meal together. Now I am beginning to get worried about this blog. It seems to be a catalogue of eating - must watch what I say.

In any case, we were discussing experiences so far. Julie has walked from Pamploma and will end her camino in Burgos and return to the USA. She said that was coming back, and that next time she was going to do the whole camino. She felt doing it in bits was inadequate - as you get into a rhythm and a spirituality, you give it up to go home. Only now can I walk comfortably and now I am beginning to experience different aspects. I can think about other things now besides  feet and aching legs. It takes a while just to be able to 'be`.

Left Atapuerta this morning and it was bitterly cold with an icy wind that just cut right through me - this is sunny Spain in June nogal. It was a tough slog today in the cold, but all my gear held up. I wore raingear because it kept threatening to rain, but never did. It warmed up only by the time I reached the outskirts of Burgos, the city of El Cid. The albergue here is an excellent one, recently refurbished. This afternoon I took the tourist bus for a 45 min tour of the old city, and then explored a stunning gothic cathedral. After the pilgrims mass tonight, it will definitely be bed time for me.
Adios.

Its raining, its pouring and I am in Villafranca Montes de Oca

Today I had to test all my raingear - and it worked. But before I get to that, let me go back to yesterday in Belorado (finally got the name correct.) After doing my blog, it started raining, so I just stayed in the dormitory. And it continued raining and I fell asleep and only woke up at 9.30pm. I think I was exhausted, as I was also cold and occasionally experiencing cold shivers. So I sat in the lounge for a bit and at 10.00pm went back to bed and slept till about 7.30am. I couldnt believe I could sleep so much.

By morning I was feeling fine, but still decided to have a half day today. So I set out for Villafranca, 12km away, instead of walking all the way to San Juan de Ortega. I started late, and was walking along when a fine drizzle started. SO out came the raingear- packed on top of everything as per instructions from the Willsons, and put on rainpants, jacket and raincover on my backpack. One important learning - it took me about 5 min to do it - so I must learn to anticipate heavy rain! It was a lovely mornings walk. THe rain was like a drizzle most of the time and it was pleasant and cool walking. The paths are normally stony and rocky and full of gravel, and all the time I look for a smooth part. Today I looked for the stones and gravel because walking in mud is not fun and the stones give grip to ones boots.

I reached Villafranca about 12.00 with some people from Germany and we decided to try the new Auberge, and I am glad we did. It s a lovely and clean place with all the facilities one needs.

I wont do much exploring as it is cold and wet outside. In any case this is a half rest day, so I intend to take it easy.  I found my Kiwi friends here, Rob and Debs, and we shared a bottle of wine and caught up on all the people and events of the last few days.

I have heard (on the camino web ie what others say) that tomorrow the sun will shine. Hooray!
Tillthen, Adios

I think it is Monday

Yesterday I checked in to a really good auberge in Santo Domingo de la Calzada (I think that is how it is spelled). It was like a hotel with a lounge area, dining area, kitchen and there was a giant pot of food there (basically potatoes with a few bits of meat in it) which the pilgrims could help themselves to. Plus there were plenty of showers and toilets. I did my usual routine, and about 2 hours after hanging up my washing, it began to rain. All the stuff was dry except the thick woolen socks so I was not too concerned.

THe city is a typical city for the la Rioja region - its capital in fact. THis region is renowned for its wines, but I suspect I didn´t get to taste any of its better ones. Attended mass at 8.00 in the evening (remember it only gets dark at 10.00pm here) in the cathedral which next door to the auberge. The church was interesting as it was full of monuments - hardly any space for a congregation. And there is a live white rooster and hen in the church! They are kept in a cage and changed every so often. THe alternate rooster was in a cage below my bedroom window, and it began crowing at 5.00 in the morning.

It has all got to do with Saint Domingo of Calzada himself. Apparantly a young pilgrim was fancied by the inkeepers daughter. He refused her advances so in revenge she accused him of theft, and so he was about to be hanged. Here the story gets confusing ( it came to me in half spanish half english). Someone was being served roasted chicken, the saint said if the chicken crowed (crew?), no hanging, and the roasted chicken got up and started crowing. Ever since then, they have kept a white rooster in the cathedral.

Had an early night, but it doesn´t also help when sleeping in bunk beds. Whenever I turn, the whole bed seems to wobble on its foundation (and no, I am not THAT heavy). The weather forecast for today said 90% chance of rain, so we were all a litlle gloomy at the prospect of walking in rain. It was chilly and overcast untill 10.30ish, with just an occasional drop of rain - not enough to get wet. Then the sun came out and the last 2 hours were very hot again. About 12ish, we passed a huge sign saying that we were now in the Castillo Y Leon region. Not bad - I have walked through Navarra, La Rioja and now in my third province. That sound good until I looked and saw that SAntiago is still very very very far away.

Reached Bel... (can´t remember or pronounce the name of this town) at about 2.00pm, found a bed in the very first auberge, and then it started to rain, and it has rained intermittently all afternoon. So I will stay indoors and rest. I will need to take a rest day soon, as my legs were tired and my feet hot and tender today and we only walked 24km. I walked part of the way with Anka from Canada and Maria from Japan. Both were struggling with sore muscles and blisters. I heard all about Anka´s former parish in Edmonton - clearly the best parish in the world!

The weather is miserable and the town centre is about 5 minutes walk too far, so back to my bed I will go.

Adios

PS: The name is Belorado. (Finally worked it out.)

From Najera to Santo Domingo de la Calzada

Today is Sunday, and my walking did not start of in an auspicious way - the effects of the previous night. Again it was cold, and at 6.00am, standing outside to clear my head, I saw young spaniards returning home. I guess there must have been lots of parties, and so I presume Barcelona had won the final.
I had an internal debate - find the closest aubergue, or walk the full distance. But the day warmed up, and I felt better and so I walked 20km today.

I stopped for breakfast along the way and I am very proud of myself. I managed to order breakfast, which is coffee and a pastry, and a bocadillos (sandwich made from a baguette) to take away. And I ordered it all by myself in SPANISH! Okay, I only understood about one tenth of the what the inkeeper asked me. And the Spanish was a word here and a word there. And I did do a lot of pointing and saying Si! Si!. And there were lots of gesticulating. BUT I GOT FOOD!

I reached Santo Domingo by noon - that was 20km in 5 hours - not bad -pat myself on the back. Found the best auberge along to whole camino and settled in.

And the rest is for another post.

Adios.

A Red Letter Day

On this day, Saturday 28th May, 2011,  I walked 29km with a backpack. In my my life I have never walked as far as that on one day - even during military service. I left Logrono early (for my standards) at 6.30am and followed a winding way out of the city. It was cold, one of those outdoor thermometers gave the temperture as 12 degrees C. Slowly it warmed up as we walked. There were the usual uphills and downhills but nothing too serious. And 7 1\2 hours later I reached Najera. Pleasant town on the banks of a river. There was a queue to get into the Albergue, and there was only one in the town. I got a ben and settled down. My legs felt okay, just my feet were hot and tender - otherwise in decent shape. The bed across from me was occupied by Gunnert - a Latvian working as a translator for the European Parliament in Luxembourg. He and his wife Ines were just doing a one week walk. I really got a grilling about all things South African - politics, social justice, food, my favourite wines, etc.

After my snooze, Gunnert and Ines suggested we go for an erly dinner. They also invited the crazy Russian Lady (Gunnert´s description, not mine!). THe crazy Russian lady came to walk the camino with a spanish friend- and the friend decided not to walk. So she set out alone, not speaking a word of spanish or any other language. So she was delighted to meet Gunnert and Ines who of course speak Russian as well. SO we went off at 6.00pm to have a drink because the bar-restaurants only open later. Remember, the Spanish only eat their evening meal at 9.00pm. We thought the place should open at 7, got there and found they would only serve from 7.30. So we had some more wine while we waited. We were going to have what is called a menu del peregrino - a menu for pilgrims served earlier that usual so the poor pilgrims can get back to the Albergue to rest. The menu is always 3 courses, the first being soup or beans or a salad etc. The second course is usually meat, with fruit or a tart etc for dessert. Bread and wine (often specified as up to 1\2 litre person!) are included.


It was such fun with interesting companions. The crazy Russian lady was full of stories, and I would get a translation from Gunnert. The place was full of pilgrims. We  were sitting outside, with a table of french pilgrims next to us, and as the evening progressed, there were more and more toasts to the´camino´in Russian and French and German and the frenchies got rowdier and rowdier. It was also the night of the Barcelona and Man united final, so the town was full of excitement. While we were eating Barcelona scored. We knew it was Barcelona from the noise and shouting! Any meal in Spain in a leisurely affair, so it was at 10 to 10, 10 minutes to curfew- that we paid our bill (9euros each) and dashed off just in time before we were locked out. So much for an early dinner!

The Aubergue (hostel for pilgrims) in Najera was the worst I had experienced. 92 people crammed into double bunks in one room, with 2 toilets and 2 showers for the men and the same for the ladies. And there was no hot water so cold showers all around. It was hot and stuffy during the night - most unpleasant. I like open windows and a cool room when I sleep, not a stuffy noisy madhouse. Getting up the next morning was a nightmare - the fight for facilities, and I had a headache. I suppose the headache is not the aubergue`s fault - it did not have an evening out with lots of wine and rowdy foreigners.

But that is for the next post.

And the next day - to Logrono

Yesterday´s half rest day did me good. I started walking at 7.00am and I reached Logrono - 20km later -at noon. A lot of the time it was up and down, and when I reached Logrono I could have carried on walking for the rest of the day. However, tomorrows walk is 30km so I had better not think about that.

Logrono is quite a large city an I managed to drag myself off my bed to have a look around. Attendded mass in the cathedral - stunning church full of the gilt wood carvings I have seen everywhere in this region. Had a doner kebab for supper, and I ordered it in broken spanish to a Pakistani working in a Turkish restaurant in the middle of Spain.

It was overcast the whole day, and cold enough for me to where a fleece. I cant believe the temperture in Spain in May was only 16 degrees celsius! It also meant that my socks did not dry so they will be dangling from my backpack tommorrow - a familiar sight on the camino.

I have fallen into a pattern on the camino - walk, then find albergue, shower, do washing, sleep, then explore the town. Met Alison from the USA toay while walking. She started from Le Puy in France and has been walking a month already. Brave soul!

Thats all for today - Adios

Half a rest day day at Torres del Rio

Yesterday while walking, a niggle in my knee turned into a sore hip, so I decided to walk only 8km to Torres del Rio and take a break to give my body some time to recover. It was a pleasant and easy walk and I almost felt guilty for stopping so early. But stop I did, found a bed at Casa Maria, and relaxed by listening to Mahler on my ipod and later to Jesus of Nazareth by Benedict 16 - an audiobook I downloaded before I left SA. After lunch I thought about some of the walkers on the camino.

There is the click-click brigade, walking with 2 sticks which go click with each step. Head forward they march on relentlessly and woe betide man or beast who get in their way. Then there is the Asian Gore-tex brigade - covered head to toe in high tech garments. No ray of sun shall sully their pristine skin, no breath of foreign air will damage their lungs.They walk and rest, walk and rest focussed on their destination. Always smilling and happy to greet everyone.

The young guys walk in packs with huge backpacks and endless energy. Then there are the insouciant women - young and carefree, talking nonstop and walking faster than anyone. Today I met a lot of day-tripping Brits - no backpack and pale knees peeking out of their shorts. They march along at fierce pace while a taxi carries their luggage. You will see the young couples, often with the husband carrying a big pack and the wife lagging behind. Then there are the hobblers- feet full of blisters or tendons in pain. Dragging their feet along and getting the pity of all the walkers and advice from everyone else. Often a sense of -there by the grace of God go I. Several time you meet a snooty Frenchy who just ignores you. Better are the early birders - with big packs they are up before the crack of dawn, disturbing the sleepers in the dorm as they get ready to leave at 5.00am. They hare off to the next destination and then collapse on their beds in exhaustion.

I enjoy the wrinkly warriors - often well trained Germans - they set a hard pace and leave the rest of us younger ones to shame. Then there are the free spirits who wander along vaguely, always ready for a long chat. They wear all types of gear with a smile. But they will avoid the German hordes who march off in the distance - must reach the albergue now, Ja!

And in the midst of all this, I am proudly South African - a little bit of this and a little bit of that.

Adios for today.

The 5th Day - to Los Arcos

Last night I stayed at the Albegue Parrochial - run by the local parish. The host were a Canadian couple, DAyton and Karen, who had volunterreed to help for aa couple of weeks. It was a small place -- 30 odd beds, but a great atmosphere. WE had a communal supper after the pilgrims mass in the church. And thennnn today dawned. The way today went past a monstery with 2 taps in the wall - one for wine and the other for water - specially for pilgrims. So I duly had some (at 8.00am nogal). The last twelve km were through rolling hills covered in vineyards and wheat fiels. Not a single drop of water on the way,,, about 2 trees the entire way and it was HOT! It was a desparate slog in the heat - the heat which helps ones to detemine that hell is not an option. Had a few niggles along the way in one knee. I hope it doesn´t get serious. Maybe it is time to have a rest day.

After arriving in Los Arcos, went to the first Albergue I saw, showered, washed clothes and had a siesta. I pulled out my ipod and the first song I listened to was the Work Song (1st track) on Les Miserables - and I expressed exactly how I felt on the walk. Listen to it and then you will appreciate my slight reworking:

Look down, Look down
Keep your eyes on the road.
Look down, Look down
Keep a watch for every stone.
The sun is strong
It´s hot as hell below
Look down, Look down
Seven hundred kays to go

So after a siesta I was ready to face the world. Attended the pilgrims mass in the Stunning Sancta Maria church. Wait for the pics till I get back. Met up with Debs and Rob from New Zealand and we had a stunning pilgrims meal. And now to bed as a storm has come.
Good night and adios.

The 4th Day - to Estella

Yesterday evening  I joined some interesting people for supper. There was fey Caroline from England - a vegan sprititual earth mother who just want to give, Eugene the voluble Italian full of stories, and DAn the Aiforce man, a strong and silent American. Fey Caroline struggles to eat in Spain as the Spanish are not into veggies and she can´t eat wheat. So the plan was to cook in the kitchen of the refugio, which by the way is one of the oldest on the camino. Pilgrims have been cared for here since the 12th century.
But you are going to have hear about it tomorrow, as I have run out of time. There is a 10.00pm curfew so I have 15 minutes to get back.
Adios

Getting to Puente la reina

So what is it like climbing up and down hills. I tell you in a moment. Yesterday afternoon after a nice rest, I thought that as I was in Pamploma, I needed to see this famous place. So I spent about 2 hours walking around, looking at the magnificnt cathedral, the Plaza de Toros - the bull fight ring, and walking along the route of running the bulls etc. Back in the refugio, a group of us decided to to out to have some food. Again we wandered around Plaza de Castillo etc, and by 9 we settled on a place. There was cool dude from Guatamala now living in the USA, sweet Caroline from canada, silent Jorge from argentina, 3 Korean girls, Joe the intense american, Santi the laid back Spaniard, and ronya from Germany. Mixed bunch, but we all could speak English. So it was a fun evening.

The next morning I left at 7.20am after the big rush early in the morning. The Way wound itself through the streets of Pamloma for 45 minutes before I hit countryside. I was walking with a sprightly little English lady, but she set a tremendous pace, so I was grateful to meet Carol and Helen, who were walking a lot slower! They heard my accent, said are you South African, Yes, then asked are you the South African priest on the camino. Flabbergasted, but they were talking to some else who said there was another south african walking. Anyway Carol is at Rosebank parish and both had blisters, and after chatting a while and walking at a slower pace was good. Soon  after recovering, I left them behind. Then the fun started.

At first it was gentle climb. I can handle that. Even a steep climb is fine. It is like this. I would be walking along, and suddenly my whole body goes heavy - I have begun to ascend. Step by step, plodding along, keeping a good pace and the climb is okay. Then I hit a flat area, and then I go into cruise control and look around whistling. Then suddenly, one step downhill and every muscle from my thigh to the toes starts shrieking - warning, danger, code red panic stations - this is downhill. The thigh muscles screeam at being stretched - we were not brought up for this. And it takes a strong "ultreya" to force them into submission. And step by step, my mantra is lean back, lift leg, heel first and eventually I MAKE IT DOWN!

Today there was a serious climb, I summitted, thought wow - let me take a photo to show how far we climbed. Took the photo and slowly took a panorama all around, looked more closely, and realised the only way forward was over that stunning ridge behind me - I was only half way up! I don´t know what the elevation was, but it felt like a 1000m. Eventually reached the top and had the arduous descent in to the valley. And it got hotter and hotter, and only by 3.00pm did I reach Puente la reina. Now I am shattered - legs not moving - exhausted, legs as stiff as anything.

Well, I did choose this. The saga continues later.

Plumbing the depths

So what is it like climbing up and down hills. I tell you in a moment. Yestrday afternoon after a nice rest, I thought that as I was in Pamploma, I needed to see this famous place. So I spent about 2 hours walking around, liiking at the magnificnt cathedral, the Plaza de Toros - the bull fight ring, and walking along the route of running the bulls etc. Back in the refugio, a group of us decided to to out to have some food. Again we wandered around Plaza de Castillo etc, and by 9 we settled on a place. There was cool dude from Guatamala now living in the USA, sweet Caroline from canada, silent Jorge from argentina, 3 Korean girls, Joe the intense american, Santi the laid back Spaniard, and ronya from Germany. Mixed bunch, but we all could speak English. So it was a fun evening.

THe next morning I left at 7.20am after the big rush early in the morning. The Way wound itself through the streets of Pamloma for 45 minutes before I hit countryside. I was walking with a sprightly little English lady, but she set a tremendous pace, so I was grateful to meet Carol and Helen, who were walking a lot slower! They heard my accent, said are you South African, Yes, then asked are you the South African priest on the camino. Flabbergasted, but they were talking to some else who said there was another south african walking. Anyway Carol is at Rosebank parish both had blisters, and after chatting a while at a slow pace to recover, I left them behind. Then the fun started. 

At first it was gentle climb. I can handle that. Even a steep climb is fine. It is like this. I would be walking along, and suddenly my whole body goes heavy - I have begun to ascend. Step by step, plodding along, keeping a good pace and the climb is okay. Then I hit a flat area, and then I go into cruise control and look around whistling. Then suddenly, one step downhill and every muscle from my thigh to the toes starts shrieking - warning, danger, code red panic stations - this is downhill. The thigh muscles screeam at being stretched - we were not brought up for this. And it takes a strong "ultreya" to force them into submission. And step by step, my mantra is lean back, lift leg, heel first and eventually I MAKE IT DOWN!

Today there was a serious climb, I summitted, thought wow - let me take a photo to show how far we climbed. Took the photo and slowly took a panorama all around, looked more closely, and realised the only way forward was over that stunning ridge behind me - I was only half way up! I think th guide book lists it as 368 m - it felt like a 1000m. Eventually reached the top and had the arduous descent in to the valley. And it got hotter and hotter, and only by 3.00pm did I reach Puente la reina. Now I am shattered - legs not moving - ehausted, legs as stiff as hell. 

Well, I did choose this. The saga continues later.

I am alive!

I have arrived in Pamplona and settled in the refugio. But let me take up the story from last night in Zubiri. I attended mass at the local parish church and at the end of the mass the priest called all the pilgrims to give them a blessing.There were about 10 pilgrims there and after the blessing we gave our countries - France(several), Japan, Canada  Brazil and of SA. Walking back to the refugio, a young women spoke to me in English, - she heard the SA in church, she was from France and we discussed where to eat that evening. We decided on the pilgrims menu across the road as it looked popular. At dinner, we were sharing our stories and she was walking the camino to discern her vocation as a nun. I am still amazed at the variety of people and the variety of reasons for walking the camino.

So it was an early night, at at 7 the next morning I set out on day 2 - rather worried about my feet and legs. This leg is about 24 km to Pamplona. Once I started moving I was fine, and the descents were gentle. I have now worked out how to walk downhill so it is much better. As we walk, often little bunches of pilgrims form and we chat along the way. I met Evaline from Germany and Gregory from France who was paralysed after a surfing accident and after a long rehab is walking, and now walking the camino.

I was walking along at a good pace with some french pilgrims when I realised I recognised the castle in Pamplona - I had arrived hardly noticing it. Found a refugio called Jesu y Maria in the older part of the city and met with several people from last night.

I have washed, done my blog, will have a siesta and then go out to find some food. And my fett are okay - no blisters yet. I feel tired but after a good rest, reckon I can handle tomorrow.
Adios from Pamplona

The First Day

I am here to tell the tale that I have survived the first day. On Thursday afternoon Ralf Paro took me to the airport, and I had the usual flight to Madrid. Usual in that I didn´t sleep a wink. Anyway at Madrdid airport I got a bus into the city to go the the big bus station there. I duly got a ticket for Pamplona and at 10.30 am the bus left and made its first stop - at the airport. Ah well, at least I can say I was in Madrid. After changing busses at Soira, I reached Pamplona about 3.00pm and then caught the only bus for Roncevalles at 6.00pm

PS excuse any typing errors. This keyboard is all in Spanish and the spellcheck only checks Spanish.

Roncevalles is in the mountains and it was a hair raising trip through many blind haipin bends to get there. At the Abbey I checked into the refugio with about 100 other pilgrims. I decided that I would start from Roncevalles and not from St Jean as the walk from St Jean is too difficult. That night at 8.00pm I attended the pilgrims mass and the priest read out a long list of countries of pilgrims - including South Africa - me. The pilgrim list included places like Korea and Russia and Japan and Argentina and from every continent except Antarctica. At the end of mass there was a blessing for the pilgrims setting out the next day.

After mass I had a bite to eat and then rush back before the curfew at 10.00pm. Lights out at 10.15pm. Pilgrims need their sleep. The next morning lights came on at 6.00am. By 7.00am I started walking. As you leave Roncevalles there is a sign saying Santiago de Compostella 790km. Just to encourage one.

It was misty and cold as we left. But exciting. Pilgrims were leaving in a steady stream. The cyclists tend to start later. It was all so new at first - keeping an eye out fro the yellow arrow which marks the way; walking through little villages and farms; practising ones few phrases of Spanish.

It warmed up nicely by 10.00am. After about 4 hours of walking, I thought this was okay. I can handle this. After 5 hours - different story. Wondering why on earth I was putting my body through this torture. Interestingly, the uphills were no problem really. Exhausting but okay. It is the downhills that get me. Every muscle in my legs was aching after the last half hour which was a steep descent to Zubiri. The flats and uphills are fine - just the downhills I struggle with. But I reached Zubiri by 1.00pm - 6 hours of solid walking - with breaks for cafe and bocadillos etc along the way. In Zubiri I found a refugio to sleep in, had a shower, washed sockes and clothes and then had a siesta. I will try the menu del perigrino - pilgrims menu at a local eating house, and then we will see what tomorrow brings. There is a wonderful camaraderie among the pilgrims and I have met many interesting chracters. Communication is fun with so many languages around.
That´s all for today, folks.

The Blessing of the Staff and Scrip

In the Middle Ages, the pilgrim would attend a special consecration ceremony in which he would be adorned in the recognised pilgrim's clothing and all his articles of pilgrimage would be blessed. His scrip (a type of pouch or wallet to carry money and documents) and his staff would be blessed using special prayers and sprinkled with Holy Water. Here is a picture of a 17th century statue of St James dressed as a pilgrim.

I consider my consecration ceremony to be the joy of celebrating mass at St John's for the 4th Sunday of Easter, and all the good wishes of parishioners. 

Ultreya! (onwards) Suseya! (upwards) Deus adjuva nos! (God be with us)
Since medieval times pilgrims have shouted these words as they set out for the day's walking. It is saying: May God be with me as I prepare to set out to walk the camino to Santiago de Campostela.
In this blog I hope to be able to jot down a few thoughts as I walk the camino. Right now I am in the last stages of my preparation. Thursday is D-day when I fly off to Spain to begin my pilgrimage.