Today I had to test all my raingear - and it worked. But before I get to that, let me go back to yesterday in Belorado (finally got the name correct.) After doing my blog, it started raining, so I just stayed in the dormitory. And it continued raining and I fell asleep and only woke up at 9.30pm. I think I was exhausted, as I was also cold and occasionally experiencing cold shivers. So I sat in the lounge for a bit and at 10.00pm went back to bed and slept till about 7.30am. I couldnt believe I could sleep so much.
By morning I was feeling fine, but still decided to have a half day today. So I set out for Villafranca, 12km away, instead of walking all the way to San Juan de Ortega. I started late, and was walking along when a fine drizzle started. SO out came the raingear- packed on top of everything as per instructions from the Willsons, and put on rainpants, jacket and raincover on my backpack. One important learning - it took me about 5 min to do it - so I must learn to anticipate heavy rain! It was a lovely mornings walk. THe rain was like a drizzle most of the time and it was pleasant and cool walking. The paths are normally stony and rocky and full of gravel, and all the time I look for a smooth part. Today I looked for the stones and gravel because walking in mud is not fun and the stones give grip to ones boots.
I reached Villafranca about 12.00 with some people from Germany and we decided to try the new Auberge, and I am glad we did. It s a lovely and clean place with all the facilities one needs.
I wont do much exploring as it is cold and wet outside. In any case this is a half rest day, so I intend to take it easy. I found my Kiwi friends here, Rob and Debs, and we shared a bottle of wine and caught up on all the people and events of the last few days.
I have heard (on the camino web ie what others say) that tomorrow the sun will shine. Hooray!
Tillthen, Adios
Tuesday, 31 May 2011
Monday, 30 May 2011
I think it is Monday
Yesterday I checked in to a really good auberge in Santo Domingo de la Calzada (I think that is how it is spelled). It was like a hotel with a lounge area, dining area, kitchen and there was a giant pot of food there (basically potatoes with a few bits of meat in it) which the pilgrims could help themselves to. Plus there were plenty of showers and toilets. I did my usual routine, and about 2 hours after hanging up my washing, it began to rain. All the stuff was dry except the thick woolen socks so I was not too concerned.
THe city is a typical city for the la Rioja region - its capital in fact. THis region is renowned for its wines, but I suspect I didn´t get to taste any of its better ones. Attended mass at 8.00 in the evening (remember it only gets dark at 10.00pm here) in the cathedral which next door to the auberge. The church was interesting as it was full of monuments - hardly any space for a congregation. And there is a live white rooster and hen in the church! They are kept in a cage and changed every so often. THe alternate rooster was in a cage below my bedroom window, and it began crowing at 5.00 in the morning.
It has all got to do with Saint Domingo of Calzada himself. Apparantly a young pilgrim was fancied by the inkeepers daughter. He refused her advances so in revenge she accused him of theft, and so he was about to be hanged. Here the story gets confusing ( it came to me in half spanish half english). Someone was being served roasted chicken, the saint said if the chicken crowed (crew?), no hanging, and the roasted chicken got up and started crowing. Ever since then, they have kept a white rooster in the cathedral.
Had an early night, but it doesn´t also help when sleeping in bunk beds. Whenever I turn, the whole bed seems to wobble on its foundation (and no, I am not THAT heavy). The weather forecast for today said 90% chance of rain, so we were all a litlle gloomy at the prospect of walking in rain. It was chilly and overcast untill 10.30ish, with just an occasional drop of rain - not enough to get wet. Then the sun came out and the last 2 hours were very hot again. About 12ish, we passed a huge sign saying that we were now in the Castillo Y Leon region. Not bad - I have walked through Navarra, La Rioja and now in my third province. That sound good until I looked and saw that SAntiago is still very very very far away.
Reached Bel... (can´t remember or pronounce the name of this town) at about 2.00pm, found a bed in the very first auberge, and then it started to rain, and it has rained intermittently all afternoon. So I will stay indoors and rest. I will need to take a rest day soon, as my legs were tired and my feet hot and tender today and we only walked 24km. I walked part of the way with Anka from Canada and Maria from Japan. Both were struggling with sore muscles and blisters. I heard all about Anka´s former parish in Edmonton - clearly the best parish in the world!
The weather is miserable and the town centre is about 5 minutes walk too far, so back to my bed I will go.
Adios
PS: The name is Belorado. (Finally worked it out.)
THe city is a typical city for the la Rioja region - its capital in fact. THis region is renowned for its wines, but I suspect I didn´t get to taste any of its better ones. Attended mass at 8.00 in the evening (remember it only gets dark at 10.00pm here) in the cathedral which next door to the auberge. The church was interesting as it was full of monuments - hardly any space for a congregation. And there is a live white rooster and hen in the church! They are kept in a cage and changed every so often. THe alternate rooster was in a cage below my bedroom window, and it began crowing at 5.00 in the morning.
It has all got to do with Saint Domingo of Calzada himself. Apparantly a young pilgrim was fancied by the inkeepers daughter. He refused her advances so in revenge she accused him of theft, and so he was about to be hanged. Here the story gets confusing ( it came to me in half spanish half english). Someone was being served roasted chicken, the saint said if the chicken crowed (crew?), no hanging, and the roasted chicken got up and started crowing. Ever since then, they have kept a white rooster in the cathedral.
Had an early night, but it doesn´t also help when sleeping in bunk beds. Whenever I turn, the whole bed seems to wobble on its foundation (and no, I am not THAT heavy). The weather forecast for today said 90% chance of rain, so we were all a litlle gloomy at the prospect of walking in rain. It was chilly and overcast untill 10.30ish, with just an occasional drop of rain - not enough to get wet. Then the sun came out and the last 2 hours were very hot again. About 12ish, we passed a huge sign saying that we were now in the Castillo Y Leon region. Not bad - I have walked through Navarra, La Rioja and now in my third province. That sound good until I looked and saw that SAntiago is still very very very far away.
Reached Bel... (can´t remember or pronounce the name of this town) at about 2.00pm, found a bed in the very first auberge, and then it started to rain, and it has rained intermittently all afternoon. So I will stay indoors and rest. I will need to take a rest day soon, as my legs were tired and my feet hot and tender today and we only walked 24km. I walked part of the way with Anka from Canada and Maria from Japan. Both were struggling with sore muscles and blisters. I heard all about Anka´s former parish in Edmonton - clearly the best parish in the world!
The weather is miserable and the town centre is about 5 minutes walk too far, so back to my bed I will go.
Adios
PS: The name is Belorado. (Finally worked it out.)
Sunday, 29 May 2011
From Najera to Santo Domingo de la Calzada
Today is Sunday, and my walking did not start of in an auspicious way - the effects of the previous night. Again it was cold, and at 6.00am, standing outside to clear my head, I saw young spaniards returning home. I guess there must have been lots of parties, and so I presume Barcelona had won the final.
I had an internal debate - find the closest aubergue, or walk the full distance. But the day warmed up, and I felt better and so I walked 20km today.
I stopped for breakfast along the way and I am very proud of myself. I managed to order breakfast, which is coffee and a pastry, and a bocadillos (sandwich made from a baguette) to take away. And I ordered it all by myself in SPANISH! Okay, I only understood about one tenth of the what the inkeeper asked me. And the Spanish was a word here and a word there. And I did do a lot of pointing and saying Si! Si!. And there were lots of gesticulating. BUT I GOT FOOD!
I reached Santo Domingo by noon - that was 20km in 5 hours - not bad -pat myself on the back. Found the best auberge along to whole camino and settled in.
And the rest is for another post.
Adios.
I had an internal debate - find the closest aubergue, or walk the full distance. But the day warmed up, and I felt better and so I walked 20km today.
I stopped for breakfast along the way and I am very proud of myself. I managed to order breakfast, which is coffee and a pastry, and a bocadillos (sandwich made from a baguette) to take away. And I ordered it all by myself in SPANISH! Okay, I only understood about one tenth of the what the inkeeper asked me. And the Spanish was a word here and a word there. And I did do a lot of pointing and saying Si! Si!. And there were lots of gesticulating. BUT I GOT FOOD!
I reached Santo Domingo by noon - that was 20km in 5 hours - not bad -pat myself on the back. Found the best auberge along to whole camino and settled in.
And the rest is for another post.
Adios.
A Red Letter Day
On this day, Saturday 28th May, 2011, I walked 29km with a backpack. In my my life I have never walked as far as that on one day - even during military service. I left Logrono early (for my standards) at 6.30am and followed a winding way out of the city. It was cold, one of those outdoor thermometers gave the temperture as 12 degrees C. Slowly it warmed up as we walked. There were the usual uphills and downhills but nothing too serious. And 7 1\2 hours later I reached Najera. Pleasant town on the banks of a river. There was a queue to get into the Albergue, and there was only one in the town. I got a ben and settled down. My legs felt okay, just my feet were hot and tender - otherwise in decent shape. The bed across from me was occupied by Gunnert - a Latvian working as a translator for the European Parliament in Luxembourg. He and his wife Ines were just doing a one week walk. I really got a grilling about all things South African - politics, social justice, food, my favourite wines, etc.
After my snooze, Gunnert and Ines suggested we go for an erly dinner. They also invited the crazy Russian Lady (Gunnert´s description, not mine!). THe crazy Russian lady came to walk the camino with a spanish friend- and the friend decided not to walk. So she set out alone, not speaking a word of spanish or any other language. So she was delighted to meet Gunnert and Ines who of course speak Russian as well. SO we went off at 6.00pm to have a drink because the bar-restaurants only open later. Remember, the Spanish only eat their evening meal at 9.00pm. We thought the place should open at 7, got there and found they would only serve from 7.30. So we had some more wine while we waited. We were going to have what is called a menu del peregrino - a menu for pilgrims served earlier that usual so the poor pilgrims can get back to the Albergue to rest. The menu is always 3 courses, the first being soup or beans or a salad etc. The second course is usually meat, with fruit or a tart etc for dessert. Bread and wine (often specified as up to 1\2 litre person!) are included.
It was such fun with interesting companions. The crazy Russian lady was full of stories, and I would get a translation from Gunnert. The place was full of pilgrims. We were sitting outside, with a table of french pilgrims next to us, and as the evening progressed, there were more and more toasts to the´camino´in Russian and French and German and the frenchies got rowdier and rowdier. It was also the night of the Barcelona and Man united final, so the town was full of excitement. While we were eating Barcelona scored. We knew it was Barcelona from the noise and shouting! Any meal in Spain in a leisurely affair, so it was at 10 to 10, 10 minutes to curfew- that we paid our bill (9euros each) and dashed off just in time before we were locked out. So much for an early dinner!
The Aubergue (hostel for pilgrims) in Najera was the worst I had experienced. 92 people crammed into double bunks in one room, with 2 toilets and 2 showers for the men and the same for the ladies. And there was no hot water so cold showers all around. It was hot and stuffy during the night - most unpleasant. I like open windows and a cool room when I sleep, not a stuffy noisy madhouse. Getting up the next morning was a nightmare - the fight for facilities, and I had a headache. I suppose the headache is not the aubergue`s fault - it did not have an evening out with lots of wine and rowdy foreigners.
But that is for the next post.
After my snooze, Gunnert and Ines suggested we go for an erly dinner. They also invited the crazy Russian Lady (Gunnert´s description, not mine!). THe crazy Russian lady came to walk the camino with a spanish friend- and the friend decided not to walk. So she set out alone, not speaking a word of spanish or any other language. So she was delighted to meet Gunnert and Ines who of course speak Russian as well. SO we went off at 6.00pm to have a drink because the bar-restaurants only open later. Remember, the Spanish only eat their evening meal at 9.00pm. We thought the place should open at 7, got there and found they would only serve from 7.30. So we had some more wine while we waited. We were going to have what is called a menu del peregrino - a menu for pilgrims served earlier that usual so the poor pilgrims can get back to the Albergue to rest. The menu is always 3 courses, the first being soup or beans or a salad etc. The second course is usually meat, with fruit or a tart etc for dessert. Bread and wine (often specified as up to 1\2 litre person!) are included.
It was such fun with interesting companions. The crazy Russian lady was full of stories, and I would get a translation from Gunnert. The place was full of pilgrims. We were sitting outside, with a table of french pilgrims next to us, and as the evening progressed, there were more and more toasts to the´camino´in Russian and French and German and the frenchies got rowdier and rowdier. It was also the night of the Barcelona and Man united final, so the town was full of excitement. While we were eating Barcelona scored. We knew it was Barcelona from the noise and shouting! Any meal in Spain in a leisurely affair, so it was at 10 to 10, 10 minutes to curfew- that we paid our bill (9euros each) and dashed off just in time before we were locked out. So much for an early dinner!
The Aubergue (hostel for pilgrims) in Najera was the worst I had experienced. 92 people crammed into double bunks in one room, with 2 toilets and 2 showers for the men and the same for the ladies. And there was no hot water so cold showers all around. It was hot and stuffy during the night - most unpleasant. I like open windows and a cool room when I sleep, not a stuffy noisy madhouse. Getting up the next morning was a nightmare - the fight for facilities, and I had a headache. I suppose the headache is not the aubergue`s fault - it did not have an evening out with lots of wine and rowdy foreigners.
But that is for the next post.
Friday, 27 May 2011
And the next day - to Logrono
Yesterday´s half rest day did me good. I started walking at 7.00am and I reached Logrono - 20km later -at noon. A lot of the time it was up and down, and when I reached Logrono I could have carried on walking for the rest of the day. However, tomorrows walk is 30km so I had better not think about that.
Logrono is quite a large city an I managed to drag myself off my bed to have a look around. Attendded mass in the cathedral - stunning church full of the gilt wood carvings I have seen everywhere in this region. Had a doner kebab for supper, and I ordered it in broken spanish to a Pakistani working in a Turkish restaurant in the middle of Spain.
It was overcast the whole day, and cold enough for me to where a fleece. I cant believe the temperture in Spain in May was only 16 degrees celsius! It also meant that my socks did not dry so they will be dangling from my backpack tommorrow - a familiar sight on the camino.
I have fallen into a pattern on the camino - walk, then find albergue, shower, do washing, sleep, then explore the town. Met Alison from the USA toay while walking. She started from Le Puy in France and has been walking a month already. Brave soul!
Thats all for today - Adios
Logrono is quite a large city an I managed to drag myself off my bed to have a look around. Attendded mass in the cathedral - stunning church full of the gilt wood carvings I have seen everywhere in this region. Had a doner kebab for supper, and I ordered it in broken spanish to a Pakistani working in a Turkish restaurant in the middle of Spain.
It was overcast the whole day, and cold enough for me to where a fleece. I cant believe the temperture in Spain in May was only 16 degrees celsius! It also meant that my socks did not dry so they will be dangling from my backpack tommorrow - a familiar sight on the camino.
I have fallen into a pattern on the camino - walk, then find albergue, shower, do washing, sleep, then explore the town. Met Alison from the USA toay while walking. She started from Le Puy in France and has been walking a month already. Brave soul!
Thats all for today - Adios
Thursday, 26 May 2011
Half a rest day day at Torres del Rio
Yesterday while walking, a niggle in my knee turned into a sore hip, so I decided to walk only 8km to Torres del Rio and take a break to give my body some time to recover. It was a pleasant and easy walk and I almost felt guilty for stopping so early. But stop I did, found a bed at Casa Maria, and relaxed by listening to Mahler on my ipod and later to Jesus of Nazareth by Benedict 16 - an audiobook I downloaded before I left SA. After lunch I thought about some of the walkers on the camino.
There is the click-click brigade, walking with 2 sticks which go click with each step. Head forward they march on relentlessly and woe betide man or beast who get in their way. Then there is the Asian Gore-tex brigade - covered head to toe in high tech garments. No ray of sun shall sully their pristine skin, no breath of foreign air will damage their lungs.They walk and rest, walk and rest focussed on their destination. Always smilling and happy to greet everyone.
The young guys walk in packs with huge backpacks and endless energy. Then there are the insouciant women - young and carefree, talking nonstop and walking faster than anyone. Today I met a lot of day-tripping Brits - no backpack and pale knees peeking out of their shorts. They march along at fierce pace while a taxi carries their luggage. You will see the young couples, often with the husband carrying a big pack and the wife lagging behind. Then there are the hobblers- feet full of blisters or tendons in pain. Dragging their feet along and getting the pity of all the walkers and advice from everyone else. Often a sense of -there by the grace of God go I. Several time you meet a snooty Frenchy who just ignores you. Better are the early birders - with big packs they are up before the crack of dawn, disturbing the sleepers in the dorm as they get ready to leave at 5.00am. They hare off to the next destination and then collapse on their beds in exhaustion.
I enjoy the wrinkly warriors - often well trained Germans - they set a hard pace and leave the rest of us younger ones to shame. Then there are the free spirits who wander along vaguely, always ready for a long chat. They wear all types of gear with a smile. But they will avoid the German hordes who march off in the distance - must reach the albergue now, Ja!
And in the midst of all this, I am proudly South African - a little bit of this and a little bit of that.
Adios for today.
There is the click-click brigade, walking with 2 sticks which go click with each step. Head forward they march on relentlessly and woe betide man or beast who get in their way. Then there is the Asian Gore-tex brigade - covered head to toe in high tech garments. No ray of sun shall sully their pristine skin, no breath of foreign air will damage their lungs.They walk and rest, walk and rest focussed on their destination. Always smilling and happy to greet everyone.
The young guys walk in packs with huge backpacks and endless energy. Then there are the insouciant women - young and carefree, talking nonstop and walking faster than anyone. Today I met a lot of day-tripping Brits - no backpack and pale knees peeking out of their shorts. They march along at fierce pace while a taxi carries their luggage. You will see the young couples, often with the husband carrying a big pack and the wife lagging behind. Then there are the hobblers- feet full of blisters or tendons in pain. Dragging their feet along and getting the pity of all the walkers and advice from everyone else. Often a sense of -there by the grace of God go I. Several time you meet a snooty Frenchy who just ignores you. Better are the early birders - with big packs they are up before the crack of dawn, disturbing the sleepers in the dorm as they get ready to leave at 5.00am. They hare off to the next destination and then collapse on their beds in exhaustion.
I enjoy the wrinkly warriors - often well trained Germans - they set a hard pace and leave the rest of us younger ones to shame. Then there are the free spirits who wander along vaguely, always ready for a long chat. They wear all types of gear with a smile. But they will avoid the German hordes who march off in the distance - must reach the albergue now, Ja!
And in the midst of all this, I am proudly South African - a little bit of this and a little bit of that.
Adios for today.
Wednesday, 25 May 2011
The 5th Day - to Los Arcos
Last night I stayed at the Albegue Parrochial - run by the local parish. The host were a Canadian couple, DAyton and Karen, who had volunterreed to help for aa couple of weeks. It was a small place -- 30 odd beds, but a great atmosphere. WE had a communal supper after the pilgrims mass in the church. And thennnn today dawned. The way today went past a monstery with 2 taps in the wall - one for wine and the other for water - specially for pilgrims. So I duly had some (at 8.00am nogal). The last twelve km were through rolling hills covered in vineyards and wheat fiels. Not a single drop of water on the way,,, about 2 trees the entire way and it was HOT! It was a desparate slog in the heat - the heat which helps ones to detemine that hell is not an option. Had a few niggles along the way in one knee. I hope it doesn´t get serious. Maybe it is time to have a rest day.
After arriving in Los Arcos, went to the first Albergue I saw, showered, washed clothes and had a siesta. I pulled out my ipod and the first song I listened to was the Work Song (1st track) on Les Miserables - and I expressed exactly how I felt on the walk. Listen to it and then you will appreciate my slight reworking:
Look down, Look down
Keep your eyes on the road.
Look down, Look down
Keep a watch for every stone.
The sun is strong
It´s hot as hell below
Look down, Look down
Seven hundred kays to go
So after a siesta I was ready to face the world. Attended the pilgrims mass in the Stunning Sancta Maria church. Wait for the pics till I get back. Met up with Debs and Rob from New Zealand and we had a stunning pilgrims meal. And now to bed as a storm has come.
Good night and adios.
After arriving in Los Arcos, went to the first Albergue I saw, showered, washed clothes and had a siesta. I pulled out my ipod and the first song I listened to was the Work Song (1st track) on Les Miserables - and I expressed exactly how I felt on the walk. Listen to it and then you will appreciate my slight reworking:
Look down, Look down
Keep your eyes on the road.
Look down, Look down
Keep a watch for every stone.
The sun is strong
It´s hot as hell below
Look down, Look down
Seven hundred kays to go
So after a siesta I was ready to face the world. Attended the pilgrims mass in the Stunning Sancta Maria church. Wait for the pics till I get back. Met up with Debs and Rob from New Zealand and we had a stunning pilgrims meal. And now to bed as a storm has come.
Good night and adios.
Tuesday, 24 May 2011
The 4th Day - to Estella
Yesterday evening I joined some interesting people for supper. There was fey Caroline from England - a vegan sprititual earth mother who just want to give, Eugene the voluble Italian full of stories, and DAn the Aiforce man, a strong and silent American. Fey Caroline struggles to eat in Spain as the Spanish are not into veggies and she can´t eat wheat. So the plan was to cook in the kitchen of the refugio, which by the way is one of the oldest on the camino. Pilgrims have been cared for here since the 12th century.
But you are going to have hear about it tomorrow, as I have run out of time. There is a 10.00pm curfew so I have 15 minutes to get back.
Adios
But you are going to have hear about it tomorrow, as I have run out of time. There is a 10.00pm curfew so I have 15 minutes to get back.
Adios
Getting to Puente la reina
So what is it like climbing up and down hills. I tell you in a moment. Yesterday afternoon after a nice rest, I thought that as I was in Pamploma, I needed to see this famous place. So I spent about 2 hours walking around, looking at the magnificnt cathedral, the Plaza de Toros - the bull fight ring, and walking along the route of running the bulls etc. Back in the refugio, a group of us decided to to out to have some food. Again we wandered around Plaza de Castillo etc, and by 9 we settled on a place. There was cool dude from Guatamala now living in the USA, sweet Caroline from canada, silent Jorge from argentina, 3 Korean girls, Joe the intense american, Santi the laid back Spaniard, and ronya from Germany. Mixed bunch, but we all could speak English. So it was a fun evening.
The next morning I left at 7.20am after the big rush early in the morning. The Way wound itself through the streets of Pamloma for 45 minutes before I hit countryside. I was walking with a sprightly little English lady, but she set a tremendous pace, so I was grateful to meet Carol and Helen, who were walking a lot slower! They heard my accent, said are you South African, Yes, then asked are you the South African priest on the camino. Flabbergasted, but they were talking to some else who said there was another south african walking. Anyway Carol is at Rosebank parish and both had blisters, and after chatting a while and walking at a slower pace was good. Soon after recovering, I left them behind. Then the fun started.
At first it was gentle climb. I can handle that. Even a steep climb is fine. It is like this. I would be walking along, and suddenly my whole body goes heavy - I have begun to ascend. Step by step, plodding along, keeping a good pace and the climb is okay. Then I hit a flat area, and then I go into cruise control and look around whistling. Then suddenly, one step downhill and every muscle from my thigh to the toes starts shrieking - warning, danger, code red panic stations - this is downhill. The thigh muscles screeam at being stretched - we were not brought up for this. And it takes a strong "ultreya" to force them into submission. And step by step, my mantra is lean back, lift leg, heel first and eventually I MAKE IT DOWN!
Today there was a serious climb, I summitted, thought wow - let me take a photo to show how far we climbed. Took the photo and slowly took a panorama all around, looked more closely, and realised the only way forward was over that stunning ridge behind me - I was only half way up! I don´t know what the elevation was, but it felt like a 1000m. Eventually reached the top and had the arduous descent in to the valley. And it got hotter and hotter, and only by 3.00pm did I reach Puente la reina. Now I am shattered - legs not moving - exhausted, legs as stiff as anything.
Well, I did choose this. The saga continues later.
The next morning I left at 7.20am after the big rush early in the morning. The Way wound itself through the streets of Pamloma for 45 minutes before I hit countryside. I was walking with a sprightly little English lady, but she set a tremendous pace, so I was grateful to meet Carol and Helen, who were walking a lot slower! They heard my accent, said are you South African, Yes, then asked are you the South African priest on the camino. Flabbergasted, but they were talking to some else who said there was another south african walking. Anyway Carol is at Rosebank parish and both had blisters, and after chatting a while and walking at a slower pace was good. Soon after recovering, I left them behind. Then the fun started.
At first it was gentle climb. I can handle that. Even a steep climb is fine. It is like this. I would be walking along, and suddenly my whole body goes heavy - I have begun to ascend. Step by step, plodding along, keeping a good pace and the climb is okay. Then I hit a flat area, and then I go into cruise control and look around whistling. Then suddenly, one step downhill and every muscle from my thigh to the toes starts shrieking - warning, danger, code red panic stations - this is downhill. The thigh muscles screeam at being stretched - we were not brought up for this. And it takes a strong "ultreya" to force them into submission. And step by step, my mantra is lean back, lift leg, heel first and eventually I MAKE IT DOWN!
Today there was a serious climb, I summitted, thought wow - let me take a photo to show how far we climbed. Took the photo and slowly took a panorama all around, looked more closely, and realised the only way forward was over that stunning ridge behind me - I was only half way up! I don´t know what the elevation was, but it felt like a 1000m. Eventually reached the top and had the arduous descent in to the valley. And it got hotter and hotter, and only by 3.00pm did I reach Puente la reina. Now I am shattered - legs not moving - exhausted, legs as stiff as anything.
Well, I did choose this. The saga continues later.
Monday, 23 May 2011
Plumbing the depths
So what is it like climbing up and down hills. I tell you in a moment. Yestrday afternoon after a nice rest, I thought that as I was in Pamploma, I needed to see this famous place. So I spent about 2 hours walking around, liiking at the magnificnt cathedral, the Plaza de Toros - the bull fight ring, and walking along the route of running the bulls etc. Back in the refugio, a group of us decided to to out to have some food. Again we wandered around Plaza de Castillo etc, and by 9 we settled on a place. There was cool dude from Guatamala now living in the USA, sweet Caroline from canada, silent Jorge from argentina, 3 Korean girls, Joe the intense american, Santi the laid back Spaniard, and ronya from Germany. Mixed bunch, but we all could speak English. So it was a fun evening.
THe next morning I left at 7.20am after the big rush early in the morning. The Way wound itself through the streets of Pamloma for 45 minutes before I hit countryside. I was walking with a sprightly little English lady, but she set a tremendous pace, so I was grateful to meet Carol and Helen, who were walking a lot slower! They heard my accent, said are you South African, Yes, then asked are you the South African priest on the camino. Flabbergasted, but they were talking to some else who said there was another south african walking. Anyway Carol is at Rosebank parish both had blisters, and after chatting a while at a slow pace to recover, I left them behind. Then the fun started.
At first it was gentle climb. I can handle that. Even a steep climb is fine. It is like this. I would be walking along, and suddenly my whole body goes heavy - I have begun to ascend. Step by step, plodding along, keeping a good pace and the climb is okay. Then I hit a flat area, and then I go into cruise control and look around whistling. Then suddenly, one step downhill and every muscle from my thigh to the toes starts shrieking - warning, danger, code red panic stations - this is downhill. The thigh muscles screeam at being stretched - we were not brought up for this. And it takes a strong "ultreya" to force them into submission. And step by step, my mantra is lean back, lift leg, heel first and eventually I MAKE IT DOWN!
Today there was a serious climb, I summitted, thought wow - let me take a photo to show how far we climbed. Took the photo and slowly took a panorama all around, looked more closely, and realised the only way forward was over that stunning ridge behind me - I was only half way up! I think th guide book lists it as 368 m - it felt like a 1000m. Eventually reached the top and had the arduous descent in to the valley. And it got hotter and hotter, and only by 3.00pm did I reach Puente la reina. Now I am shattered - legs not moving - ehausted, legs as stiff as hell.
Well, I did choose this. The saga continues later.
Sunday, 22 May 2011
I am alive!
I have arrived in Pamplona and settled in the refugio. But let me take up the story from last night in Zubiri. I attended mass at the local parish church and at the end of the mass the priest called all the pilgrims to give them a blessing.There were about 10 pilgrims there and after the blessing we gave our countries - France(several), Japan, Canada Brazil and of SA. Walking back to the refugio, a young women spoke to me in English, - she heard the SA in church, she was from France and we discussed where to eat that evening. We decided on the pilgrims menu across the road as it looked popular. At dinner, we were sharing our stories and she was walking the camino to discern her vocation as a nun. I am still amazed at the variety of people and the variety of reasons for walking the camino.
So it was an early night, at at 7 the next morning I set out on day 2 - rather worried about my feet and legs. This leg is about 24 km to Pamplona. Once I started moving I was fine, and the descents were gentle. I have now worked out how to walk downhill so it is much better. As we walk, often little bunches of pilgrims form and we chat along the way. I met Evaline from Germany and Gregory from France who was paralysed after a surfing accident and after a long rehab is walking, and now walking the camino.
I was walking along at a good pace with some french pilgrims when I realised I recognised the castle in Pamplona - I had arrived hardly noticing it. Found a refugio called Jesu y Maria in the older part of the city and met with several people from last night.
I have washed, done my blog, will have a siesta and then go out to find some food. And my fett are okay - no blisters yet. I feel tired but after a good rest, reckon I can handle tomorrow.
Adios from Pamplona
So it was an early night, at at 7 the next morning I set out on day 2 - rather worried about my feet and legs. This leg is about 24 km to Pamplona. Once I started moving I was fine, and the descents were gentle. I have now worked out how to walk downhill so it is much better. As we walk, often little bunches of pilgrims form and we chat along the way. I met Evaline from Germany and Gregory from France who was paralysed after a surfing accident and after a long rehab is walking, and now walking the camino.
I was walking along at a good pace with some french pilgrims when I realised I recognised the castle in Pamplona - I had arrived hardly noticing it. Found a refugio called Jesu y Maria in the older part of the city and met with several people from last night.
I have washed, done my blog, will have a siesta and then go out to find some food. And my fett are okay - no blisters yet. I feel tired but after a good rest, reckon I can handle tomorrow.
Adios from Pamplona
Saturday, 21 May 2011
The First Day
I am here to tell the tale that I have survived the first day. On Thursday afternoon Ralf Paro took me to the airport, and I had the usual flight to Madrid. Usual in that I didn´t sleep a wink. Anyway at Madrdid airport I got a bus into the city to go the the big bus station there. I duly got a ticket for Pamplona and at 10.30 am the bus left and made its first stop - at the airport. Ah well, at least I can say I was in Madrid. After changing busses at Soira, I reached Pamplona about 3.00pm and then caught the only bus for Roncevalles at 6.00pm
PS excuse any typing errors. This keyboard is all in Spanish and the spellcheck only checks Spanish.
Roncevalles is in the mountains and it was a hair raising trip through many blind haipin bends to get there. At the Abbey I checked into the refugio with about 100 other pilgrims. I decided that I would start from Roncevalles and not from St Jean as the walk from St Jean is too difficult. That night at 8.00pm I attended the pilgrims mass and the priest read out a long list of countries of pilgrims - including South Africa - me. The pilgrim list included places like Korea and Russia and Japan and Argentina and from every continent except Antarctica. At the end of mass there was a blessing for the pilgrims setting out the next day.
After mass I had a bite to eat and then rush back before the curfew at 10.00pm. Lights out at 10.15pm. Pilgrims need their sleep. The next morning lights came on at 6.00am. By 7.00am I started walking. As you leave Roncevalles there is a sign saying Santiago de Compostella 790km. Just to encourage one.
It was misty and cold as we left. But exciting. Pilgrims were leaving in a steady stream. The cyclists tend to start later. It was all so new at first - keeping an eye out fro the yellow arrow which marks the way; walking through little villages and farms; practising ones few phrases of Spanish.
It warmed up nicely by 10.00am. After about 4 hours of walking, I thought this was okay. I can handle this. After 5 hours - different story. Wondering why on earth I was putting my body through this torture. Interestingly, the uphills were no problem really. Exhausting but okay. It is the downhills that get me. Every muscle in my legs was aching after the last half hour which was a steep descent to Zubiri. The flats and uphills are fine - just the downhills I struggle with. But I reached Zubiri by 1.00pm - 6 hours of solid walking - with breaks for cafe and bocadillos etc along the way. In Zubiri I found a refugio to sleep in, had a shower, washed sockes and clothes and then had a siesta. I will try the menu del perigrino - pilgrims menu at a local eating house, and then we will see what tomorrow brings. There is a wonderful camaraderie among the pilgrims and I have met many interesting chracters. Communication is fun with so many languages around.
That´s all for today, folks.
PS excuse any typing errors. This keyboard is all in Spanish and the spellcheck only checks Spanish.
Roncevalles is in the mountains and it was a hair raising trip through many blind haipin bends to get there. At the Abbey I checked into the refugio with about 100 other pilgrims. I decided that I would start from Roncevalles and not from St Jean as the walk from St Jean is too difficult. That night at 8.00pm I attended the pilgrims mass and the priest read out a long list of countries of pilgrims - including South Africa - me. The pilgrim list included places like Korea and Russia and Japan and Argentina and from every continent except Antarctica. At the end of mass there was a blessing for the pilgrims setting out the next day.
After mass I had a bite to eat and then rush back before the curfew at 10.00pm. Lights out at 10.15pm. Pilgrims need their sleep. The next morning lights came on at 6.00am. By 7.00am I started walking. As you leave Roncevalles there is a sign saying Santiago de Compostella 790km. Just to encourage one.
It was misty and cold as we left. But exciting. Pilgrims were leaving in a steady stream. The cyclists tend to start later. It was all so new at first - keeping an eye out fro the yellow arrow which marks the way; walking through little villages and farms; practising ones few phrases of Spanish.
It warmed up nicely by 10.00am. After about 4 hours of walking, I thought this was okay. I can handle this. After 5 hours - different story. Wondering why on earth I was putting my body through this torture. Interestingly, the uphills were no problem really. Exhausting but okay. It is the downhills that get me. Every muscle in my legs was aching after the last half hour which was a steep descent to Zubiri. The flats and uphills are fine - just the downhills I struggle with. But I reached Zubiri by 1.00pm - 6 hours of solid walking - with breaks for cafe and bocadillos etc along the way. In Zubiri I found a refugio to sleep in, had a shower, washed sockes and clothes and then had a siesta. I will try the menu del perigrino - pilgrims menu at a local eating house, and then we will see what tomorrow brings. There is a wonderful camaraderie among the pilgrims and I have met many interesting chracters. Communication is fun with so many languages around.
That´s all for today, folks.
Monday, 16 May 2011
The Blessing of the Staff and Scrip
In the Middle Ages, the pilgrim would attend a special consecration ceremony in which he would be adorned in the recognised pilgrim's clothing and all his articles of pilgrimage would be blessed. His scrip (a type of pouch or wallet to carry money and documents) and his staff would be blessed using special prayers and sprinkled with Holy Water. Here is a picture of a 17th century statue of St James dressed as a pilgrim.
I consider my consecration ceremony to be the joy of celebrating mass at St John's for the 4th Sunday of Easter, and all the good wishes of parishioners.
Saturday, 14 May 2011
Ultreya! (onwards) Suseya! (upwards) Deus adjuva nos! (God be with us)
Since medieval times pilgrims have shouted these words as they set out for the day's walking. It is saying: May God be with me as I prepare to set out to walk the camino to Santiago de Campostela.
In this blog I hope to be able to jot down a few thoughts as I walk the camino. Right now I am in the last stages of my preparation. Thursday is D-day when I fly off to Spain to begin my pilgrimage.
Since medieval times pilgrims have shouted these words as they set out for the day's walking. It is saying: May God be with me as I prepare to set out to walk the camino to Santiago de Campostela.
In this blog I hope to be able to jot down a few thoughts as I walk the camino. Right now I am in the last stages of my preparation. Thursday is D-day when I fly off to Spain to begin my pilgrimage.
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