I think it is Monday

Yesterday I checked in to a really good auberge in Santo Domingo de la Calzada (I think that is how it is spelled). It was like a hotel with a lounge area, dining area, kitchen and there was a giant pot of food there (basically potatoes with a few bits of meat in it) which the pilgrims could help themselves to. Plus there were plenty of showers and toilets. I did my usual routine, and about 2 hours after hanging up my washing, it began to rain. All the stuff was dry except the thick woolen socks so I was not too concerned.

THe city is a typical city for the la Rioja region - its capital in fact. THis region is renowned for its wines, but I suspect I didn´t get to taste any of its better ones. Attended mass at 8.00 in the evening (remember it only gets dark at 10.00pm here) in the cathedral which next door to the auberge. The church was interesting as it was full of monuments - hardly any space for a congregation. And there is a live white rooster and hen in the church! They are kept in a cage and changed every so often. THe alternate rooster was in a cage below my bedroom window, and it began crowing at 5.00 in the morning.

It has all got to do with Saint Domingo of Calzada himself. Apparantly a young pilgrim was fancied by the inkeepers daughter. He refused her advances so in revenge she accused him of theft, and so he was about to be hanged. Here the story gets confusing ( it came to me in half spanish half english). Someone was being served roasted chicken, the saint said if the chicken crowed (crew?), no hanging, and the roasted chicken got up and started crowing. Ever since then, they have kept a white rooster in the cathedral.

Had an early night, but it doesn´t also help when sleeping in bunk beds. Whenever I turn, the whole bed seems to wobble on its foundation (and no, I am not THAT heavy). The weather forecast for today said 90% chance of rain, so we were all a litlle gloomy at the prospect of walking in rain. It was chilly and overcast untill 10.30ish, with just an occasional drop of rain - not enough to get wet. Then the sun came out and the last 2 hours were very hot again. About 12ish, we passed a huge sign saying that we were now in the Castillo Y Leon region. Not bad - I have walked through Navarra, La Rioja and now in my third province. That sound good until I looked and saw that SAntiago is still very very very far away.

Reached Bel... (can´t remember or pronounce the name of this town) at about 2.00pm, found a bed in the very first auberge, and then it started to rain, and it has rained intermittently all afternoon. So I will stay indoors and rest. I will need to take a rest day soon, as my legs were tired and my feet hot and tender today and we only walked 24km. I walked part of the way with Anka from Canada and Maria from Japan. Both were struggling with sore muscles and blisters. I heard all about Anka´s former parish in Edmonton - clearly the best parish in the world!

The weather is miserable and the town centre is about 5 minutes walk too far, so back to my bed I will go.

Adios

PS: The name is Belorado. (Finally worked it out.)