On this day, Saturday 28th May, 2011, I walked 29km with a backpack. In my my life I have never walked as far as that on one day - even during military service. I left Logrono early (for my standards) at 6.30am and followed a winding way out of the city. It was cold, one of those outdoor thermometers gave the temperture as 12 degrees C. Slowly it warmed up as we walked. There were the usual uphills and downhills but nothing too serious. And 7 1\2 hours later I reached Najera. Pleasant town on the banks of a river. There was a queue to get into the Albergue, and there was only one in the town. I got a ben and settled down. My legs felt okay, just my feet were hot and tender - otherwise in decent shape. The bed across from me was occupied by Gunnert - a Latvian working as a translator for the European Parliament in Luxembourg. He and his wife Ines were just doing a one week walk. I really got a grilling about all things South African - politics, social justice, food, my favourite wines, etc.
After my snooze, Gunnert and Ines suggested we go for an erly dinner. They also invited the crazy Russian Lady (Gunnert´s description, not mine!). THe crazy Russian lady came to walk the camino with a spanish friend- and the friend decided not to walk. So she set out alone, not speaking a word of spanish or any other language. So she was delighted to meet Gunnert and Ines who of course speak Russian as well. SO we went off at 6.00pm to have a drink because the bar-restaurants only open later. Remember, the Spanish only eat their evening meal at 9.00pm. We thought the place should open at 7, got there and found they would only serve from 7.30. So we had some more wine while we waited. We were going to have what is called a menu del peregrino - a menu for pilgrims served earlier that usual so the poor pilgrims can get back to the Albergue to rest. The menu is always 3 courses, the first being soup or beans or a salad etc. The second course is usually meat, with fruit or a tart etc for dessert. Bread and wine (often specified as up to 1\2 litre person!) are included.
It was such fun with interesting companions. The crazy Russian lady was full of stories, and I would get a translation from Gunnert. The place was full of pilgrims. We were sitting outside, with a table of french pilgrims next to us, and as the evening progressed, there were more and more toasts to the´camino´in Russian and French and German and the frenchies got rowdier and rowdier. It was also the night of the Barcelona and Man united final, so the town was full of excitement. While we were eating Barcelona scored. We knew it was Barcelona from the noise and shouting! Any meal in Spain in a leisurely affair, so it was at 10 to 10, 10 minutes to curfew- that we paid our bill (9euros each) and dashed off just in time before we were locked out. So much for an early dinner!
The Aubergue (hostel for pilgrims) in Najera was the worst I had experienced. 92 people crammed into double bunks in one room, with 2 toilets and 2 showers for the men and the same for the ladies. And there was no hot water so cold showers all around. It was hot and stuffy during the night - most unpleasant. I like open windows and a cool room when I sleep, not a stuffy noisy madhouse. Getting up the next morning was a nightmare - the fight for facilities, and I had a headache. I suppose the headache is not the aubergue`s fault - it did not have an evening out with lots of wine and rowdy foreigners.
But that is for the next post.
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