Let me go back to Burgos. Large city which bills itself as the city of El Cid. And I regret now not boning up on Spanish history before coming here. Spent time exploring an extraordinary gothic cathedral. In the museum attached there was a 9th century parchment, a 10th century bible amongst other fascinating things. Had an early night as it was freezing cold in Burgos. So I set off the next morning with a cold wind blowing. The way wound itself through the outskirts of the city and after a good 45 min ofwalking finally reached countryside. It was an 18km walk to Hornillos del CAmino - a tiny village which survives on agriculture and the pilgrims staying over. The sun was shining, but there was still a bitterly cold wind blowing. And there was no internet access in the entire village. Had a pilgrims meal with 2 Australians I first met back in Zubiri after my first day of walking. They had had a tough time with blisters, headcolds etc. It was a cheerful group of pilgrims sitting in the square relaxing and talking.
Then today I was very good - I left at 7.00am to start walking. I have walked through the mountains and forests of Navarra, the vineyards and hills of Rioja (a major wine region) and now past Burgos, I am walking in the mesetas. It is describes as flat hot dusty plains, but I am walking before the harvet, and it is not flat as the Highveld is flat. The best way of describing it wouls low rolling hills covered in wheatfields - all greeen at the moment. It is good walking the mesetas - never tough inclines and few tough descents. In August the temp rises to the 40´s and it is brown. Now it looks beautiful to me with the green wheat, the red poppies and wildflowers on the verges and the lush vegetation everywhere. I arrived in Castrojeriz at 12.15pm - five hour walk doing 20km. The amazing thing is I felt comfortable and could have walked another 10km without blinking an eyelid. This is the first time I have arrived and I was not tired in any way. However I had better not speak too soon, as I see a couple of 30km legs coming up. I was looking at the schedule and I see I am 3 days away from the halfway mark. It just doesnt seem real.
The alberge I am staying in is best described as quaint. It is old and rickety, but clean and full of pilgrims familiar from travelling together. Today I walked a good distance with Peter, an Englishman living in Grenada, Spain, and he is 75 years old. He describes himself as an atheist, and is walking the camino to discover that which is spiritual in him.
Sleeping in dorms is always a challenge, and I have found a lovely way to reflect in the noise of the dorm at night. I brought an ipod with me, and on it I have some cds called Chants for Prayer, similar in style to Taize, and based on gregorian chant. At night I plug in my earphones, listen to a chant and all the noise behind me disappears.
Tomorrow I face a 26km walk, and it is getting warmer and warmer.
So, looking forward to tomorrow, it is Adios.
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