Friday night was freezing cold in O Cebreiro. We were in the clouds and it was just bitter. And the worst thing was that the albergue did not have any blankets. I slept with all my clothes on just to stay warm. Normaly the dormitories are hot and stuffy, but not in this place. I woke wondering how my legs would be wouldI be able move them or ot - and they were okay. Hooray - there is life in the old boy yet. So at 7.30am - a late start because it would be a short walk of 20km - I set off. It was overcast and drizzly and still very cold, so I was in full rain gear. And then the path started going UP. Fortunately the ups were mild and soon we were going down. After an hour all the raingear came off as it warmed up. Then a cloud came over - jacket back on, raincover for pack back on. THen the sun came again and it was like this all morning. We are now in Galicia, in the mountains and hill country. It is green and lush and lots of cows. Many times the trail went through little villages with more cows than humans. THe last 3 hours were a steady downhill - and steep in places when I had to grit teeeth and slowly take baby steps down.
Apart from some steep bits it was a pleasant walk downhill. REached Triacastella at lunchtime and found a bed and did the usual washing and rest. Then I attended a pilgrims mass in the local church - and a most unusual mass. THe priest was in his 60s - and very welcoming. He had pilgrims gathered round the altar, kept on inserting explanations and ad-libbing quite a bit. But he did include lots of languages and we got some strange translations as well. Interesting, but I was pleased he tried so hard.
I have just come from having a rather good pilgrims meal at one of the local places, and so ready for bed. Tomorrow will take us to SArria and there is a longer route in the country past Samos monastery and a shorter route along the tar road. Another Decision for tomorrow.
Goodnight and adios.
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