The countdown has begun in Portomarin

It varies but it is now between 94-98km to go!
It was an "interesting" walk today. Sarria is about 114km from Santiago. To achieve a compostella - the certificate to say one has completed a pilgrimage, one has to prove having walked 100km to Santiago. As I discovered today, the consequence is that a lat of people start walking in Sarria to qualify for a compostella. I was not quite prepared for the huge numbers of new people walking. Plus there were hordes of giggling and loud teeenagers walking as a group. Spread out of course, but it seemed like several schools sent their kids. At first I was angry, dissapointed , annoyed etc. Many of the new people don´t greet and it seemed like a race to reach the next place. And the teens were loud and noisy and exuberent and insufferably full of energy. I thought - give them a couple of kms and they will soon get tired. I forgot about the boundless energy of the youth. So I had to make a mind shift and decide that it was great to get kids away from TV and into the open and may the spark of true pilgrimage grow in them.

After some hours the masses had spread out a bit and new comers started to learn some manners and the Beun Camino greeting reappearred. It will be like this for the next 4 days so it is a matter of adapt or die!

About 5km from Portomarin, I passed a South African flag hanging proudly. THere was a table under it with fruit and cooldrinks - an honour stand as you take want you want and put the money in the bowl. I went iinside and spoke to the owners son. His dad (from SA) was converting this old and almost derelict building into an Albergue. Unfortunately he was out, but had a nice chat to the son. I wish him well in this venture.

I reached Portomarin by crossing a high and long bridge. On the brindge looking down into the water (although not much water) you can see the remains of a village. The authorities wanted to build a reservoir there, and they rebuilt the village of portomarin in a new place. The church was an impressive fortified Templar church, and it was dismantled stone by stone and rebuilt in the new village. I sat in it for a while and would never have believed it was down where the water is now. One other building was rebuilt stone by stone, the other buildings are new.

So Portomarin is an interesting little village. It is crammed full of pilgrims. I am sure there are more pilgrims than residents today. The leisure centre is full of mattrasses for the kids and for the overflow from the albergues. That is the real issue for the next 4 days - the unseemly scramble to get a bed before a place is completo (full).

BUT -4 days to go. I estimate that I should reach Santiago by Friday if all goes well. It doesnt seem real that I am so close. On the 20th May - one month ago - I had reached madrid in the morning, and then went by bus to Roncesvalles to start walking. It seems like forever ago.

For me now it off to bed so I can start in good time tomorrow.

Adios.