Monday 6th June and I am in Carrion de los Condes

I have put the date in the heading to remind me when it is - here each day just sort of happens with no relation to outside world. I am not sure of the spelling of names of towns as I dont have my guide book with me.

Two days ago I was in Castrojeriz - an interesting little village that exists for the camino. It was first built in Roman times, allegedly founded by Julius Caesar on his military expeditions. It still has the ruins of a castle on top of the hill, but no ways was I going to climb it. I had a pilgrims meal with the usual intersting bunch of people- there was Al from Canada, Kristy from Norway, Else from Denmark, and Dereck & Anna from Australia. Again we were together because of English. There are huge numbers of Germans, French and Spaniards walking the camino. They form the majority with the rest of the world making up the rest. Dereck and Anna work in hospitals and I first met them in Rubiri after my first day of walking. Kirsty has just retired from being professor of Spanish in Norway. Al is a non-catholic married to a catholic from a strong catholic family. He has retired from being an accountant and his wife works at the local catholic university (I think in New Brunswick). Al and I were talking about why we are walking the camino. He said that he struggles to explain why. Mostly it is deepening the sense of his own spirituality. He is touched by the whole experience of being a pilgrim, but admits that the camaraderie at the end of a days walking, when pilgrims are enjoying a meal and recounting their experiences and sharing news and about themselves - that is one of his favourite moments.

We had this meal in a bar-restaurante (hat is what they are called in spain) which looked a little grotty in the bar part, but was so lovely in the dining part. The host, Diego, came up and didnt just give a menu, instead he asked where we were from and chatted a bit before producing the choices from the menu of the day. He was genuinely interested and friendly. It is special to meet this kind of relaxed hospitality.

It was a 26km walk from Castrojeriz to Fromista on Sunday. Again I had a good walk and enjoyed it. About 2km out of town we climded this hill at a 12 degre incline (accoring to the sign). It was a serious challenge for me - a very intesive 45min and then we had to go down again! But after that it was the flat undulating plains of the mesetas - wheatfields as far as the eye could see. I reached Fromista in good time. In Fromista there is a stunning Romanesque style of church which has been restored to its original glory. You will have to wait till I get back to see the pics! I stayed at the albergue municipal - quite a large one, but with lots of familiar faces.

This is one aspect that is disappointing for me. Since Burgos, it seems to me that the number of pilgrims is increasing. In the last couple of days while walking, I have not being out of sight of a pilgrim. Often I can count and many as 5 ahead of me, and a number behind. I miss Navarra, when there were more occasions when one was alone with the road.

Walking is a time of reflection and I am enjoying it immensly. Often I spend time reflecting on the past and becoming more comfortable with myself. Sounds strange, but that is the best way of describing it.

In Fromista I joined Peter from the previous day and I had a paella for supper. Cant be in spain and not have a paella. And then I was in bed by 9.30pm! Lights out were at 10, but we have these incredibly eager pilgrims who wake up everyone when they leave at 5.30 in the morning. So I was awake early and left Fromista at 7.00 on the dot. Todays walk was short - only 19km and I reached Carrion de los Condes at 11.00am. 4 hours to walk 19km - felt pretty pleased about that (though it was as flat as a pancake which did make it easier). I am staying in the monastery of Santa Clara and we are only 4 to a room - what luxury! I felt a little lost arriving so early, but soon washed, did washing and got into relaxing mode. THen the rain came down and I still have wet socks. Woe is me. They will have to dangle from my backpack tomorrow until they are dry (assuming it doesnt rain tomorrow). I came out in the rain to find an intenet cafe to write this blog - arent I good!

Tommorrow is going to be a tough walk - 26km with no shade and perhaps 1 stop along the way. Near Calzadillo I will be halfway on the Way to Santiago!!!!!! So I will head of to rest.
Adios from Carrion de los Condes. (Cant help repeating that name - word association - dead meat of the condor).
Adios