The feeling unwell yesterday was an upset stomach: Fortunately I am over it and feeling fine. I will do this posr on 2 separate entries to try and keep things in order. It is interesting how the outside world has vaninshe and I live just for today.
Bercianos de Real Camino was a tiny place and the albergue was a donativo place - it means it runs on donations and volunteers come to run it. Two brothers from the Rioja region were there on duty for 2 weeks. They only spoke spanish so it was fun communicating with the many foreigners. They had with them their dog - a massive boxer called Atilla. The albergue was overflowing - it had 50 beds and another 14 people sleeping on mattrasses in varius spaces. Incidently the previos night there were only 41 pilgrims there. ANyway we had a community meal. One brother cooked paella and it came out in 2 huges dishes. The pilgrims supplied the wine, and so the songs flowed as well. We were all squeezed into a tiny space, but still managed - lots of fun. Any the paella was not bad.
The next morning (Thursday) I was up bright and early - because the rest of the dormitory was! The original plan was to walk to Reliegos (21km) and stay there overnight. The walk was pleasant and unexpetional (ie I dont remeber much) in the Mesetas. It is flat and hot, although still chilly or even cold early in the mornings.
I reached Reliegos about 12ish and stopped at the cafe and had lunch with Else from Denmark. We had been bumping into each other for the last couple of days. Over lunch we decided not to stay but press on for Leon. So we walked another 6 km to Mansilla de las Mulas and caught a bus into Leon for the last 18km. The way goes through a dreary strip of industry and none of us wanted to walk it. This way I managed to regain a day, which I want to use in a rather long stage later.
So it was a 27km walk and I magaed okay - well it was rather flat. Leon is a large city and I have to admit not enjoying the cities so much - prefer the country towns any day while walking. I found a bed in the Convento Santa Maria de las Carbajas - Benedictine nuns who run an albergue with volunteers.
After settling in and meeting with Dan the american who had to take off 2 days to recover after walking too much, and with Kiwis Debs and Rod whom I last saw in Burgos (they had foot problems and took the train), i went of the Cathedral . a magnificent Gothic church. After all the spanish baroque I have seen , it was great to see some gothic. The cathedral is renowned for its stained glass windows and there were stunningly beautiful. At the cathedral I bumped into Kirsty from Norway - she had also taken the bus. That is the great joy of the camino - meeting up with people at all odd times along the way.
Attended mass in the convent and about 20 nuns were there. They sang the mass in a typical nun´s gentle reverential style - which did not impress Kirsty who wanted something more dramatic. Had a pilgrims meal and to bed for a miserable night. The matrasses (sp?) were thin so hipbones sat on wood, there were no pillows or blankets, and my bed was near the window letting in the outside lights. Not going there again!
So that was Thursday. Adios
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